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Post by bobster on Oct 11, 2007 16:00:23 GMT -5
How much does an Edison C-250 weigh? My uncle wants to ship his to me and we are trying to figure out how much it weighs so we can deal with the freight company.
Thanks
Bobster
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Post by maroongem on Oct 11, 2007 17:41:19 GMT -5
I believe my C-19 (a later version w/o the drawers) weighs about 125 lbs w/o crating. Don't know from where it's coming and going to, but I'd guess at least $300.00 to ship in the U.S. by freight.
Bill
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Post by bobster on Oct 11, 2007 20:31:40 GMT -5
Bill,
Thanks for the reply. I understand that the C-19 is the sucessor to the C-250 but I've not seen one. Is it similar to a C-250?
I am supposing that ,with the drawers, a C-250 would be heavier. Do you agree?
Thanks,
Bobster
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Post by rocky on Oct 11, 2007 20:46:14 GMT -5
I remember when Matt Brown delivered my C-250 and we carried it up to the front steps and into the house! Was that ever H-E-A-V-Y!! Even for two people!
Rocky
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Post by gramophoneshane on Oct 12, 2007 1:27:08 GMT -5
The C250 & C19 are exactly the same, except for the drawers. The C19 had 2 rows of cardboard slats/dividers for the records. So yours will be heavier. I guess you could weigh the drawers on bathroom scales, and add that to the 125 lbs that Bill mentioned for an approximate weight. If hes giving you records too, they weigh a ton when you've got a few of them together. Make sure he packs the reproducer seperately with plenty of padding, and succure it well inside the machine, so it cant roll around.
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Post by lukewarmwater on Oct 12, 2007 5:11:27 GMT -5
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Post by maroongem on Oct 12, 2007 7:06:32 GMT -5
I remember when Matt Brown delivered my C-250 and we carried it up to the front steps and into the house! Was that ever H-E-A-V-Y!! Even for two people! Rocky Rocky, You haven't LIVED until you and 2 others have to move a Vic 10-50 out of one home and up the stairs to my living room!!!! Bill
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ultona
Full Member
It's Not Easy Bein' Green
Posts: 164
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Post by ultona on Oct 12, 2007 11:39:25 GMT -5
Bill, I've lived through that misery...it ain't fun, is it? Sean
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Post by rocky on Oct 12, 2007 13:02:25 GMT -5
Unlike humans, Edison phonographs will not gain weight if you overfeed them. Just imagine..........you play your DDs for hours every day and within a year your C-250 triples its weight!
;D Rocky
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Post by jnorman111 on Oct 12, 2007 13:45:10 GMT -5
(J.M.J.) Remember to be careful to not lift on the ornamentations on the back top corners when moving as they will come off very easy. I have 2 upright DDs, one C-19 in my garage, one almost perfect C-250, both oak. The stunningly beautiful light colored oak C-250 I purchased this past March had both the ornamentations on the back broken off by the previous owner when he had moved it several years ago, but luckily he had saved the broken parts. I have not yet come up with my courage enough to try to glue them back on. I understand I should try to find some antique "hide glue" in powdered form. Any other suggestions? Am I better to find a professional that would make a housecall and do the job right? Don't want to move it again down the stairs, it was heavy moving up.
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Post by maroongem on Oct 12, 2007 15:32:13 GMT -5
Get yourself some BIG clamps and Gorilla glue. Follow the directions on the bottle of glue. This is some serious Sheet and will bond those pieces forever!!! You might want to carefully sand off all the old hide glue before you do this. You can pick up these nifty little foam blocks covered with an abrasive at a local Home Depot or hardware store. They are reuseable and are comfortable to sand with.
Bill
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Post by lukewarmwater on Oct 12, 2007 16:24:35 GMT -5
I would not recommend Gorilla Glue for that sort of repair. GG is a urethane glue that swells to fill space. It is good for re-gluing worn loose chair legs, etc., but not the best choice for your repair (no offense Bill). For the record, always dampen the mating surfaces before applying GG and clamp (any glue requires clamping to hold except contact cement which requires at least tapping). For the repair you describe I would recommend hide glue. HG comes in pearls or flakes. Simply dissolve in water in a glass jar in a double boiler. Apply glue and clamp. The glue joint is incredibly strong, sands easily and will accept a touch up stain. It is also reversible if need be. Yellow carpenter's glue (aliphatic resin), white casein glue, and GG never harden completely -- they remain somewhat soft (hide glue turns crystal hard) and are not reversible. They will not accept stain either so the glue lines can be difficult to hide. Hide glue seems exotic but it is easy to use and works great for visible area furniture repair. Be sure to throw it away within a few days of use because since it is an animal protein, it will spoil and stink like dead meat. Luke W.
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Post by maroongem on Oct 12, 2007 16:42:58 GMT -5
I would not recommend Gorilla Glue for that sort of repair. GG is a urethane glue that swells to fill space. It is good for re-gluing worn loose chair legs, etc., but not the best choice for your repair (no offense Bill). For the record, always dampen the mating surfaces before applying GG and clamp (any glue requires clamping to hold except contact cement which requires at least tapping). For the repair you describe I would recommend hide glue. HG comes in pearls or flakes. Simply dissolve in water in a glass jar in a double boiler. Apply glue and clamp. The glue joint is incredibly strong, sands easily and will accept a touch up stain. It is also reversible if need be. Yellow carpenter's glue (aliphatic resin), white casein glue, and GG never harden completely -- they remain somewhat soft (hide glue turns crystal hard) and are not reversible. They will not accept stain either so the glue lines can be difficult to hide. Hide glue seems exotic but it is easy to use and works great for visible area furniture repair. Be sure to throw it away within a few days of use because since it is an animal protein, it will spoil and stink like dead meat. Luke W. Sorry Luke, but I will have to disagree with you. I've used Gorilla glue for many wood repairs and found it quite adequate. This is a simple repair and what I suggested should do the trick. You have to use it sparingly along with a slight wash of water on the mating piece and clamp the pieces together, making sure you wipe any residue that escapes from the clamped seams. Hide glue requires heat to soften it as well as clamping and is really not available anymore. Bill
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Post by lukewarmwater on Oct 12, 2007 20:18:59 GMT -5
Bill -- Hide glue is still available from dozens of sources including Constantines and Woodcraft. It comes in a number of grades for different uses. I can drive 5 minutes and buy it from my local Woodcraft store. It is the glue used by guitar and violin makers as well as furniture restorers and player piano rebuilders. I also use it in my sign business to ice-chip glass. Hide glue has a very fast set time . . . as soon as it is cool you can take the clamps off. No 24-hour dry times. Like I said, one of the things I like about it is that it accepts stain. I use a thin coat of it on wood as a sanding sealer and filler. Try it . . . you'll like it! Gorilla Glue is a one-trick pony. Hide glue has many uses. BTW, all glue joints require clamping regardless of the glue used. Luke W.
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Post by maroongem on Oct 13, 2007 4:49:50 GMT -5
Luke, Gorilla Glue is far from a "one trick pony" as you say. It accepts stain readily has a set up time of 90% @ 3-4 hrs, doesn't require any mixing and is bond-able to numerous surfaces. As far as the places you mention, neither are in my drivable area, nor have I ever heard of them. We will have to agree to disagree here as what works for you may not work for others or isn't feasible and vice versa. But kindly don't tell me or others what has worked well for me isn't suitable for someone else's use. A question was asked and I answered it with a product that I felt was applicable to the job (trim work). Now let's wrap this up as this is heading rather rapidly to a VERY pointless post.
Bill
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