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Post by maroongem on Mar 21, 2008 12:18:20 GMT -5
I happy to hear someone else tried the hair dryer trick I mentoned on the OTVMMB back on the 15th. It has always worked well for me and has never affected the potmetal back to any visible degree and as Sean mentioned, allows the new one to slip in a bit easier when warm.
It doesn't bother the seal around the needle bar or the mica gaskets either.
Bill
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Post by neophone on Mar 21, 2008 13:17:07 GMT -5
...It doesn't bother the seal around the needle bar or the mica gaskets either. Bill Bill, Good point-The heat gun even at a distance and an angle can melt the bee's wax lickity-split! Regards, J. |
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Post by steve432 on Mar 31, 2008 7:57:08 GMT -5
I know I'm very late coming to this thread but Neo, if you're simply melting a tiny ball of beeswax on the tip of the stylus bar, you can use the heated tip of a screwdriver. We have a gas hob and I usually heat a small driver (with wooden handle  ) for a few seconds in a gas flame before applying the tip to the wax which will melt and run into a neat circular blob within a second. No fear of (over)heating the stylus bar either! I think someone remarked about using a Bunsen burner too - would work equally well. Steve |
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Post by neophone on Apr 1, 2008 9:13:44 GMT -5
Steve,
No, Bill and I were just commenting that while using the heat gun to soften the isolator on the back of a Sound-Box one has to be careful to keep the main flow of hot air out of the throat of reproducer since the very hot air of the heat gun can melt to bee's wax in seconds.
The heated screw driver is a neat trick. I'll have to try that next time. Thanks
Regards,
J.
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) for a few seconds in a gas flame before applying the tip to the wax which will melt and run into a neat circular blob within a second. No fear of (over)heating the stylus bar either!