Post by lucius1958 on Mar 14, 2018 23:14:13 GMT -5
I have found that some 10" sleeves will split when you try to fit a DD in them. The "Disc-O-Phile" sleeves from Kurt Nauck may work better, but they are rather expensive. I haven't tried Bags Unlimited.
As for storage, they should definitely be stored upright, although they are less susceptible to breakage than regular 78s.
For playback, you could get an Edison DD Phonograph (make sure that the stylus is good); or you can play them on a modern turntable, if you rewire the cartridge for vertical input, and use an appropriately sized stylus. Also, get a turntable with pitch control, so you can adjust the speed to 80 rpm.
OK, I have an Amberola 30 of the same vintage as yours.
The pivot block is definitely installed backwards, most likely by the last person who tinkered with the reproducer. There should be a third hole on the block, where that pin in the second photo fits. After you've got that block back in place, check the stylus (not "needle") height. That can be adjusted by the screw and nut just below the weight.
If the machine is still slowing down, it may be that the half nut is bearing down too hard on the feed screw (the threaded shaft under the mandrel). There are a couple of screws holding the half nut bracket in place: raising the bracket a tiny bit will ease the pressure. It takes a bit of fiddling to get to the "sweet spot", where the stylus is neither too high or too low: adjusting the pivot screw on the reproducer will also help the movement of the weight.
A couple of other tips: make sure the stylus is not worn or chipped, as that can damage cylinders. Get a good jeweler's loupe (preferably double lens), and look carefully for any flat spots on the diamond. If you find any damage, your best recourse is to send the reproducer to Steve Medved, to be replaced with the "Bruce" stylus (the best replacement around these days). He can also rebuild the reproducer, replacing the gaskets (and the diaphragm, if need be).
A couple of other tips for best reproduction from your machine: coat the neck of the reproducer with vaseline, where it goes into the horn, to better seal the joint; and insulate the connections between the horn and the rest of the machine. This means putting felt or leather washers between the pin at the bottom of the horn, the slotted piece in which it fits, and the nut that secures it; and covering the hook where the suspension spring attaches to the horn with rubber tubing. The spring itself ought ideally to be sheathed in rubber to kill any resonances: the results are quite satisfying.
This really should be in the Disc Machines section, but that's another story.
The H19 was one of the least expensive Disc Phonographs available at the time, after the B19 table model. With the soft market prevailing nowadays, I regret to say that $700 is a rather inflated estimate, even in excellent restored condition.
If you're leery about replacing the mainspring, there are several suppliers who can do that for you for a reasonable charge. Reiss covers the procedure, though; and it is not too difficult if you have a little patience.
Post by lucius1958 on Oct 23, 2017 23:29:22 GMT -5
OK. In "checking over", have you cleaned and lubricated the mainspring, motor, and top works? Any hardened grease or gummed up oil, and any other residue on a number of parts, can rob the machine of power.
If you take the belt off, and spin the mandrel by hand, does it spin freely for several seconds? Adjusting the end bearings will sometimes improve performance. Are the belt and pulleys clean and free of oil, and is the belt tension set up right? If the belt is too loose, or if there's any oil on it, it may slip when a load is put on the motor. A thin layer of rubber cement on the inside of the belt sometimes helps.
The straight edge, carriage shaft, and feed screw should be clean, free of any rust, and lightly lubricated (powdered graphite is good for feed screws). Is the half nut adjusted properly? Too much pressure on the feed screw will cause it to bog down in play: you can carefully bend the half nut bar back slightly to relieve that.
If, after all this, the motor still slows and stops, you may have a weakened mainspring, which should be replaced.
The devil, as they say, is in the details: check everything carefully, and you'll eventually find the source of the trouble.
BTW: do you have a copy of Eric Reiss's The Compleat Talking Machine? If not, it's an excellent resource for any collector and restorer.
Last Edit: Oct 23, 2017 23:34:09 GMT -5 by lucius1958
Post by lucius1958 on Sept 25, 2017 1:55:12 GMT -5
Unfortunately, the link is not working for me: it redirects me to the Vimeo home page. Perhaps some still photos would help to illustrate your issue?
If the mandrel will not turn, you most likely have a swollen pot metal bearing (The later model Edisons, which had no end gate, needed this bearing). You will have to remove that first. Remove all the screws that hold the pulley (and feed screw, etc.,if you have a Home or Triumph) to the mandrel shaft, and CAREFULLY twist and pull the mandrel out.
Now to remove the old bearing. Take out the set screw, douse the bearing liberally with penetrating oil, and let it sit for a while. Then take a wooden dowel, or soft brass rod, and GENTLY start tapping the old bearing out (you don't want to break the stanchion in which it sits). If the bearing doesn't budge after long and repeated effort, you will simply have to break it out. Insert a fine hacksaw blade, and cut the bearing into pieces which can be removed. (I believe some restorers have dripped muriatic acid on the bearing to dissolve or weaken the metal).
When you've finally got the bearing out, clean any scars or burrs from its hole, and insert a bronze replacement (available from suppliers such as APSCo, Great Lakes Antique Phonograph, or Ron Sitko). If the new bearing is still a little tight, use some rubbing compound on a smaller dowel to ease the fit.
Now for the governor. If the springs are so splayed out as to prevent you from closing the case, that's pretty extreme, and certainly explains the noise. Could someone have tried to replace the springs with untempered strips of metal or something? Your best course is to remove the governor and replace the springs and weights completely. Again, the sources mentioned above will be of great help.
If you need other tips on restoration, I suggest you get a copy of "The Compleat Talking Machine" by Eric Reiss. It is an indispensable resource for the collector and restorer.
I hope this post has been of some help. Send us some photos!