tom
New Member
Posts: 14
|
W19
Jan 10, 2010 14:28:06 GMT -5
Post by tom on Jan 10, 2010 14:28:06 GMT -5
I have an Edison W19 which I have gradually been amassing information on as it is quite rare in the UK. It appears to be an early 1919 model as it has many similarities to the W250 which were later dispensed with on this model. At some stage my machine was upgraded to play the long play records. As well as a long play reproducer I have a standard one with NS after the serial number. Am I right in thinking this is a new standard or edisonic reproducer? The serial number begins with an A which confused me at first as I thought it was therefore an early one.
|
|
|
W19
Jan 10, 2010 14:45:45 GMT -5
Post by Valecnik on Jan 10, 2010 14:45:45 GMT -5
Hello Tom,
It probably is an Edisonic. The extra heavy weight should be the tip you need to confirm. If you are still not sure, post or send some pictures and one of us would be able to tell you.
That is a very rare machine to find in Europe. I live in Czech Republic and have some diamond disc machines here but I brought them from the Us.
Cheers, Bruce
|
|
|
W19
Jan 11, 2010 4:59:57 GMT -5
Post by matty on Jan 11, 2010 4:59:57 GMT -5
If I remember correctly, NS (new standard) reproducers are standard reproducers that were sent back to the Edison factor & upgraded to Edisonic reproducer specifications. This was done simply to reduce the cost of buying a completely new Edisonic reproducer. I have heard that Edison DD machines are quite rare in UK because they never gained public acceptance there. I guess this was probably due to the many British gramophone manufacturers that offered good quality products at a far cheaper price than an American import. The W19 is a very attractive machine indeed, and with the NS reproducer & LP attachments, your machine is a nice find, having been upgraded to the highest specifications possible.
|
|
tom
New Member
Posts: 14
|
W19
Jan 11, 2010 6:59:44 GMT -5
Post by tom on Jan 11, 2010 6:59:44 GMT -5
Thanks for info. I attach a picture of my reproducer as suggested. The serial number is A231141NS. That this is a remanufactured earlier reproducer does seem to make sense. Attachments:
|
|
|
W19
Jan 11, 2010 8:04:22 GMT -5
Post by larryh on Jan 11, 2010 8:04:22 GMT -5
Tom, yes you have an upgrade to Edisonic weight on your reproducer.
Larry
|
|
|
W19
Jan 11, 2010 10:58:50 GMT -5
Post by maroongem on Jan 11, 2010 10:58:50 GMT -5
From my research, the New Standard (later called the Edisonic) were both refits and "from the factory." The factory issued style will not have the earlier letter prefix before the serial number but rather a serial number either followed by NS or the NS will be stamped before the serial number. Also, the refits I've seen will usually have the original smaller diameter limit pin rather than the more robust one found on the factory issued ones. Does your Reproducer have cork gaskets rather than rubber ones?
Bill
|
|
tom
New Member
Posts: 14
|
W19
Jan 11, 2010 15:51:54 GMT -5
Post by tom on Jan 11, 2010 15:51:54 GMT -5
From what I can see the diaphragm looks to be cork and the outer ring which I presume is the gasket is reddish brown rubber. I have also noticed G and P inscribed on the underside rim of the top section. Tom
|
|
|
W19
Jan 11, 2010 23:19:38 GMT -5
Post by larryh on Jan 11, 2010 23:19:38 GMT -5
Tom,
The gasket material is only as wide as the little ring that holds it firmly in place. What I think your seeing is the outer edges of the diaphragm which is made from shellacked layers of rice paper and the cork is a sort of baffle in the center. The gasket is probably only visible when you remove the lower weight and then unscrew the ring that holds the gaskets in place. They are about a 1/16" wide probably..
Larry
|
|
tom
New Member
Posts: 14
|
W19
Jan 12, 2010 4:51:32 GMT -5
Post by tom on Jan 12, 2010 4:51:32 GMT -5
Thanks for clearing that up, I am not too well versed in how these reproducers are constructed. I am not sure I am brave enough at the moment to take it apart but am delighted to have found out more about it.
Tom
|
|
|
W19
Jan 12, 2010 9:15:13 GMT -5
Post by larryh on Jan 12, 2010 9:15:13 GMT -5
Tom,
Once you understand how the reproducer comes apart there really is nothing too it except getting the little ring on the linkage off the stylus bar hook can be a chore. I usually take a very small screw driver and gently pry that stylus hook open a bit more than it is. Then with a tooth pick or very small screw driver you should be able to work the linkage off the stylus hook. That is usually the hardest part and in reverse hooking it again can take a bit of patience. You want to be very careful as not to damage the cloth link of the cord. Just prying on the little metal ring and not the cord. I take the toothpick and maneuver the eye end of the cord and carefully work it so that it will start to enter the hook, then I use a small screw driver to put some pressure on it to get it to hook over the stylus bar. I think some people pull the little rod out of the center of the stylus in order to take it apart without disconnecting the linkage, but I have found that to be more tricky than the first way.
After that you take out the screws in the bottom of the weight pivot and the weight will lift off the rear pin and out of the limiting loop at the front. You then can unscrew the round ring that holds the diaphragm in place. If its stuck a bit of W-D40 on it will usually help get it going. Once its been unscrewed a few times it will be easy to take out and put back. Under the ring is a metal ring with a small tab that holds it from moving when the large ring is tightened. That protects the gaskets from moving due to the ring turning to tighten down on them. You can then lift out the gaskets and diaphragm. Best to replace the gaskets at that point with new ones since no doubt they are long since dried out.
Hope some of that makes sense. Some others may have tips that would benefit both of us?
Larry
|
|
|
W19
Jan 12, 2010 11:40:12 GMT -5
Post by maroongem on Jan 12, 2010 11:40:12 GMT -5
Hi Tom,
If you plan on replacing the gaskets (that are no doubt hard as rocks as Larry mentioned) there is one slight difference between your NS and a typically found Standard Reproducer, and this is the spring loaded stylus bar. If you are going to unhook the braided link in the manner Larry suggests, you will have to disconnect the spring from the hook on the rear of the stylus bar. This will give you more downward movement at the junction where the linkage eye is hooked to the end of the stylus. Keep in mind that the silk link is 80+ yrs old and has become quite dry and will fray easily and often separate from one of the ends. Another way you can remove the weight from the linkage without unnecessary strain on the silk cord is to remove the stylus bar pin and then after removing the spring block screws and cover you can let the stylus and connected link slip through the hole in the weight. If the pin won't push out easily, I usually moisten the ends of the pin where it protrudes through the "ears" that support the stylus bar with a lubricant such as Liquid Wrench. The lubricant will absorb along the bar and then let it sit for a bit to free up any material that may be holding the pin. Most times there will be enough of the pin protruding from the side of stylus supports so that you can start to push the pin through with a flat punch. You may have to do this several times from side to side to loosen the pin that may be bound up inside the stylus itself. You can make a homemade drift punch to push the pin all or most the way out by getting a small pin vise and use a cut to length heavy common pin held in the vise to push it through. Be sure to flatten the end of the common pin that you are going to push against the stylus bar pin. When you get enough of the pin exposed on either side of the supports, you can grab this with a small smooth jaw jeweler's pliers and pull it the rest of the way out. If this seems too daunting, I'm sure there are repair persons in the U.K. that you can send the Reproducer to. Good luck in your endeavor!
Bill
|
|
tom
New Member
Posts: 14
|
W19
Jan 12, 2010 11:40:34 GMT -5
Post by tom on Jan 12, 2010 11:40:34 GMT -5
Thanks Larry,
I have today sent the reproducer to Expert Stylus to have the diamond point checked for wear. I may try to check the gaskets when I get it back. I imagine I would have to get new gaskets from the States.
Tom
|
|
|
W19
Jan 12, 2010 11:44:01 GMT -5
Post by maroongem on Jan 12, 2010 11:44:01 GMT -5
LOL! Tom, I see we posted at the same time! Expert will no doubt take good care of you.
Bill
|
|
|
W19
Jan 12, 2010 11:51:02 GMT -5
Post by larryh on Jan 12, 2010 11:51:02 GMT -5
Bill, Tom,
I hate to say but of the four new Stylus I have obtained from Expert only one is still working without leaving lines on the records. Not a good sign in my book and a long time issue with them, which so far has not been resolved that I know of? They also are not using a real diamond as the original, I am pretty sure they said theirs were the new manufactured type points.
If a needle is not leaving an line in the run off areas and is an original I would never change it knowing what I know now. (well its possible a old needle might be a bit fuzzy due to years of wear, but so far the old ones I have obtained are more gentle on the records).
Larry
|
|
|
W19
Jan 12, 2010 12:02:08 GMT -5
Post by maroongem on Jan 12, 2010 12:02:08 GMT -5
I think that too much is made of the lines being made by a new stylus from Expert. I have two NOS Edison Reproducers that will leave faint lines in an unmarked runoff, but leave no condensite residue on the point. I believe the concern has been if the stylus is digging up the condensite in the runoff and leaving brownish lines and residue on the tip , then there is an issue with that stylus whether it be new or original.
Bill
|
|