|
|
Post by matty on Jan 26, 2009 21:59:41 GMT -5
I very much doubt it's a repair. The wire is quite thin, so if it was used to replace the screw, the hole would have had to be sleeved or filled then redrilled to considerably reduce the hole to fit the wire.
Do the "normal" pulley's have a screw where the wire is, as well as another on the other side?
I might pull mine off later & see if I can get some decent pictures.
It would be interesting to find a few more Home B/C's with a serial number between Dean's 333875 & Klinkmi's 338434 to see what pulley they have.
|
|
Dean
New Member
Posts: 23
|
Post by Dean on Jan 29, 2009 19:52:20 GMT -5
 Although Plan A was to simply clean everything without taking the motor apart, Plan B kicked in and before I knew it the darn edison was all apart. I was tempted by those darn screws. They were calling to me... "unscrew me and see what's inside....." So I did... May need some help putting her back together. My expertise is more in the taking apart rather than the putting back together. In the above picture there is a nice little hole in the mainspring spring barrel. I know this is a lame way to go, but I was wondering.... if I rinsed the spring with paint thinner (by pouring it through the hole) to get the old grease out and used my grease gun and shot some clean grease in, would this work... or not work and be a waste of time requiring the spring to be removed, regreased and reinstalled? I'm not going to attempt it until I get some feedback on this. Also, does anyone know if there is an Edison Phonograph parts supplier in Canada? Paying the exchange will break me. Thanks again. Dean. |
|
|
|
Post by maroongem on Jan 29, 2009 21:41:00 GMT -5
Dean,
The only thing that would result in pouring a solvent through the hole is having a sludge sloshing around inside the barrel and it constantly dripping on the floor of the case. You wouldn't be able to get that soup completely out of the spring barrel through that hole. Your best bet is to remove the spring from the barrel and throughly clean it and the inside of the barrel. You can then put a few spoonfuls of what ever grease you choose and re-wind the spring back into the barrel.
I wear heavy leather gloves and pull the mainspring from the barrel inside an old mail sack. If the spring gets away from you, it doesn't go flying around the room taking all the nick nacks of the shelf (and possibly your head)!
Bill
|
|
Dean
New Member
Posts: 23
|
Post by Dean on Jan 29, 2009 21:57:52 GMT -5
Thank you Bill. Mission aborted.
I am guessing that there is no way to avoid taking out the main spring and doing a proper job of it. Now I need to decide whether to be a man and try it myself:
Result: Slit jugular vein -- News headline: " idiot found dead in workshop"....
or be smart and send it out to be done.
Result: damaged male ego.
Hmmm...
Thank you for the tip on using the mail bag. Do you wrap your arms to the neck. I think I would... just in case it turned into a wildcat in the bag.
Thanks for the help.
Dean
|
|
|
|
Post by tarheeltinkerer on Jan 29, 2009 22:20:50 GMT -5
It is helps Dean, I just swallowed my pride and mailed off my spring barrel to have a replacement put it. I pulled out the original broken spring and it was such a PITA that I opted to pay for someone who knew what they were doing to replace it. I'm still glad I did this.
|
|
|
|
Post by matty on Jan 30, 2009 4:26:53 GMT -5
Mainsprings are a cinch to remove & install with a bit of practice. They're no where near as hard as they first seem. Here's a video I put on youtube a while back. Be sure to read the description & comments too. The main problem with taking the spring out in a sake is that the spring can easily be damaged or broken. The spring in a Standard is reasonably small, so as long as you take your time & concerntrate, no harm should come to you or the spring. I've been doing them since I was 13, so you don't have to be a muscle man to keep them under control. You've still got to put the spring back in by hand, so there's not much point IMO risking damage to the spring taking it out. Of course if the spring is already broken, the sack method is fine. au.youtube.com/watch?v=rbPa-VWAzSY |
|
|
|
Post by maroongem on Jan 30, 2009 18:06:59 GMT -5
Dean et al,
Sorry if my post on using the sack to control the mainspring removal was confusing. Some may have thought that I meant the when you put the barrel & spring in the sack you just pulled on the spring until it escaped from the barrel haphazzardly. This is not what I meant at all. The sack is serving as a means of preventing injury such as the wearing safety glasses. I have removed well over a hundred springs from barrels over the years both from phonographs and clocks and trust me, when that spring starts to go, you may not be able to contain it no matter how strong you may think you are. Not to mention the barrel has a tendancy of flying as the coils unwind if not under control.
Springs are measured by length, strength, and width. The strength is the thickness of the spring, and the more power required means a thicker spring. You can't compare a portable mainspring to say a 2 ot 3 spring upright machine.
The best way to replace a mainspring into a barrel is by using a mainspring winder but these are costly (start around $400.00) and not feasible to the occasional phonograph repairman. I only bought one (used!) because of the number of european clocks that use barrels in their movements.
Bill
|
|
