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Post by martin1 on Jan 30, 2009 12:03:25 GMT -5
Hello! The early model B machines initially came with the banner. There is a shot of the case before refinishing (10 photos down) showing the original banner (which actually looks pretty good to me). The bedplate shows a serial number for a later machine (in the 517000s). Mine is one of the earlier ones to carry the "Edison" decal (in the 345000s.) This project seems to be a marriage of different parts, so it's always kind of a problem trying to nail down what era to restore to, or for that matter how much to restore. Frank - I applaud you for your enthusiasm and ability to jump in and learn something by doing! Good luck with this: you're almost there.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Jan 30, 2009 12:12:40 GMT -5
I wanted to find serial number info...and yes, this is a marriage of parts, so I matched the decal because that's what the original case had, nothing more.
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Post by matty on Jan 30, 2009 12:30:05 GMT -5
Don't worry about it too much Frank. The first of the Model B's used up the left over banner decals from the Model A's, so it's not that bad as long as you don't look at the serial number Edison never wasted anything, so there's often little variations or overlaps between models. The beauty of these old things is that you can always redo them in 10 or 20 yrs if you want to The main thing is that you've rebuilt what might otherwise have become landfill, and it will provide entertainment for the next 100 yrs. You've done a fantastic job with it, and wrong decal or not, you should be proud of what you've accomplished!
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Post by martin1 on Jan 30, 2009 12:36:38 GMT -5
Serial number info for the Standard seems to be fairly elusive. What I know is just what I've picked up looking at machines on ebay and noticing the differences in my collection of Standards. Things start to get really confusing in the later machines. There was much swapping of parts and models on the later ones. For instance, most of the Model F machines that I've seen have "D" crossed out on the ID plate and an "F" punched right next to it. One might make the argument that the original serial number should be part of the "D" series. If you stripped it down to just a bedplate, it would be really hard to tell just what model it was. BTW: have you selected your first record record for it yet? Best Regards, Martin
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Jan 30, 2009 13:38:39 GMT -5
Hi Martin,
When I stripped it down to the raw iron, the serial number stamped in the bedplate matches the number on the data plate, 517,777. As for the first record, I bought a two-minute record on ebay that arrived today, 8297, "Tipperary March." Unfortunately, the cylinder has discoloring in the wax that looks like browning dirt. It won't come off. If it is mold residue, there is no telling if this cylinder will play at all, sadly. Granted, I want one to at least "tune" the motor, so this will hopefully do the job.
I'm going to leave this machine as only a 2-minute machine, so it may be more of a conversation piece than a dedicated player. I bought a Standard D parts model on ebay, so that will be my dedicated 2/4 player. A nice Amberola down the road might be in order. Problem is, I like to target shoot, collect Soviet uniform patches, and now tinker on these. There is only so much money to go around, and outside of ebay, I haven't seen any player for sale at the local NC flea markets.
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Post by martin1 on Jan 30, 2009 15:31:49 GMT -5
Yes, it sounds like you got a moldy one. That's the main problem with the 2 minute format. If the record is shiny and unworn and everything is working as it should, I think 2 minute records generally sound better than the 4 minute counterparts. I sympathize with your interests outstripping income and time! Good luck with the Standard D.
Martin
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Jan 30, 2009 15:35:23 GMT -5
Well, I figure I can use it to test my system out (not all of the recording is damaged) and at worst sell it. It cost me around $20 shipped...not great, but if I can make a tiny bit back and sell it to someone who wants it as a display item, etc. then no loss to me.
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Post by klinkmi on Feb 3, 2009 0:41:33 GMT -5
Be careful when buying wax cylinders. If they have discolorations especially brown spots they are mold. The mold actually eats or etches the grooves leaving distortions in the recording. Also be careful when buying on E-bay especially when a seller only has a pict. of the case. If there is some that your really interested ask the seller ques. on appearance. I've gotten some great deals on E-bay so there are good ones out there.
Mike
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 3, 2009 17:59:32 GMT -5
It IS ALIVE!!! After a couple hours of lubricating, adjusting, and tuning, I FINALLY have the machine playing. The cylinder is still playable...not great, but it plays!
I am rather angry with Wyatt's Musical Americana. The spring barrel I sent them for a replacement spring does not have the center rivet hooking up with the spring. Instead of a nice spiral, the spring is bent at angles to somehow attach to the rivet. Sigh. I'm going to have to remove the spring from the housing and somehow bend it so the rivet can attach properly. Nothing else seems to be working in this department except to remove it and try to make it fit. Furthermore, there were bits of cardboard and other large bits of fiber material inside the barrel. I don't know what to say, but I'm not happy with them right now. I can call them and complain, and what good will that do?
Anyways, an Edison Standard D parts box I got on ebay had a functional spring barrel, so I used that and a gear from that motor to get mine up and running. Now the only thing I need is a case lid for this Model B. The D parts box is hopefully going to help restore two other Ds I just got on ebay...the leftovers will probably end back up on ebay in the near future.
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Post by martin1 on Feb 3, 2009 23:47:12 GMT -5
Hey Frank, good going on reviving your "B". My experience with new springs is that they all need to be adjusted to mesh properly. (That's from 3 different suppliers.) While I did have to do more finish work on Dwayne's spring, (filing & sanding off rough edges and polishing with steel wool), I must say I was impressed with its extra "punch". The spring stock is a mite thicker. That makes it even harder to install, but now I have a very strong-running motor. It is indeed a drag that the first installation didn't get it, but give him a call; I'm sure he'll make good on it. In any event, congrats on the machine revival! Martin
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 4, 2009 0:35:34 GMT -5
Many thanks Martin. My biggest lesson learned is with painting, mainly to use better paint than I did and less primer. Wyatt's said to just mail it back and they'll fix the spring. Shame they are on the other side of the country from me.
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Post by martin1 on Feb 4, 2009 14:28:31 GMT -5
I always tell myself that if I blow anything on a restoration, I can always re-do it. A friend of mine has a machine that was my first restoration (from 30 years ago!). Knowing what I know now, I could have cleaned & revived the original finish. Since I knew basically nothing, I ended up refinishing the entire cabinet in the wrong color. It still bugs me. (I keep threatening my friend that I'm going to kidnap the machine and re-do it properly.) Anyway, give yourself permission to learn. (Perhaps not starting with expensive and rare models...) I'm curious to know what you think about the new spring when you get it. Martin
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