new Amberola 30..at least to me!

[cchaven]

Over the weekend I found a nice Amberola 30 and about two dozen cylinders that had been sitting since the mid 70's. The phonograph is functional but could use a little TLC. Could someone point me to info regarding lubricating the motor? It runs but seems sluggish unless fully wound.

I've wanted an early phonograph for years and years but never took the plunge until I found this one. Other than a small chip out of the top at one corner, it's in pretty nice shape and was well cared for. At some point, 'capet bag' tapestry was glued behind the grill but it adds to the character of the machine.

Thanks
Jeff

[gibsonj]

cchaven

It might be that years of non-use, dust collection, and old oil/grease build-up are your main problems. A good cleaning and re-lubrication might do the trick for you. I'd take an old tooth brush and some solvent to all the gear faces and bearings. Since your Amberola 30 is a direct drive (i.e., gear driven versus belt driven), you wouldn't have the issue of belt slippage contributing to upper mechanism sluggishness. Don't over-lubricate--a drop or two will do, if you're following Edison's recommendation to lubricate about once a month under normal use. Lube all the gear faces, bearings, pivot points, etc.

Check the governor for proper, smooth operation. Careful when the cover is off--the governor spins up quickly and doesn't feel real good to the fingers.

Sometimes, the mainspring grease has hardened with time and non-use. Worst case, you may have to do a mainspring tear down and re-lube, but that's a topic for another discussion in itself. Since it seems that you're getting some performance out of the mainspring, my suggestion would be to add some new grease to the mainspring cannister, crank it up and let it run down a few times. This process will mix the old grease with the new, and often restores the spring performance that you need. A lot easier than a tear down. Edison's original formula for mainspring grease was equal parts of #2 flake graphite and petroleum jelly. Here's a couple of links to lubricants and parts that might help:

www.antiquephono.com/motoroil.htm

www.wyattsmusical.com/dd.pdf

Hope this gives you a starting point, and check back as the symptoms change.

John

[cchaven]

Thanks for the links. The exposed gears are actually quite clean. How were the average home user instructed to carry out the needed oiling of the machines? I don't see them actually removing the motor to do so? Also, what's the proper way of adding new grease to the spring? I've actually found no references on lubrication for these.

Thanks!
Jeff

[gibsonj]

Jeff

I haven't looked at my model 30 in awhile, but if my memory is right, there were oil holes drilled in the top gear cover to get at the bearings on the end of the governor shaft. The mandrel bearings are exposed.

You're right about access to the lower mechanics. While the earlier 2 minute and 4 minute machines had hinged tops that allowed the top plate and motor to tilt up for access, the later 4 minute Amberolas did not. This might have been purposeful to limit any tinkering--maybe to encourage a service call market. But, there were no "permanent" lubricants in those days, so periodic lubrication was needed.

The spring barrel should have a screw port, I think on the flat side opposite the crank. Its not quite the size of a dime, as I remember. Just remove that screw to open a port in the barrel for adding grease. I would say add a relatively small amount, like 1-2 tablespoons, any way you can get it in there. I have a small grease gun with a thumb-plunger that works well. Again, the idea is to get some new grease mixed with the old, in case the old grease is caking and impeding the spring action. Winding the spring up and letting it run down several times should get some results if its going to work at all.

For oiling bearings and other friction points, I use a micro precision oiler. The pin tip lets you get in close to bearing faces and other close spots like where gears mesh.

Fill me in on your results. I'm sure others may also have advice for finding and eliminating friction sources if cleaning and lubricating still don't get you where you want to be.

John

[cchaven]

My father, who repairs antique clocks, suggested StClair Nano-Oil in the 5 weight for the shafts and bearing surfaces. From what he said and from what I've been able to find on the web, people seem pretty positive about it. I ordered the 8cc pen to give it a try.

Jeff