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Post by pcimei on Sept 25, 2011 21:29:50 GMT -5
I just purchased a b19. It is in excellent condition. How do I oil it and where.
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Post by pcimei on Sept 26, 2011 11:58:43 GMT -5
How do you tell if the wood is oak or gum since the varnish has darkened and it hasn't been refinished.
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Post by bobacker on Sept 28, 2011 23:29:25 GMT -5
Hi I hope enjoy many year out of your new b-19. I only have army/navy phonograph for over two year also have a Hepplewhite, I enjoy them boths.
First question you ask how or where to oil at? Lift up the round turn plate off your record holder, where your record lay on top of the felt melt plate. From there you should be able to see a round button like melt holes, with four holes inside of it. Near the center post. Can't miss it when you looking straight down on it. You may have a cover or cap over it. But I never seem one yet. Just remover it, if dose, so can get to inside of it.
Fill it up with oil, I say good grade oil, maybe sew machine oil or 3-in-one household oil, I think would do job. Fill to rim or top of level. You can do this, while the machine running in doing so. Let it soak up more oil. Or could add some later in weeks or months, which ever you prefer. I haven't done so for over year. While you are at this, you may want take a look at spring housing where gear are turn around the gear cover, see if grease look clean, if not, look for any dry or dirt look around gear, you may want to wipe off with paint thinner, or gasoline on rags. To remove all old grease, then re-grease with car grease or wheel bearings grease. Put it were saw two other gear were turning or moving at.
On your second question, wood oak gum look? Is it look like old crack dark varnish? Antique crave or crack, Well two thing you can do, is keep original dark look by using Formby's Furniture Workshop, Conditioning Furniture Refinisher. What this product dose Dissolves old varnish lacquer and shellac with out stripping it. Just ask store manger or read Directions on how to use this product , there should be picture on back of canned what to do. Or go to website, they may have video on this, or Youtube. If doing outside & inside of your phonograph, may need 2 quart.
If don't want to keep original darkness look, then buy stripper. I don't like using it, but on some jobs if Varnish is too build up, or too thick to remove it, then have no choice but buy stripper.
But if there was any sand done to your b19 wood before you brought it, you may not want sand it. Where area was sanded you may want to fill in or to try smooth out with old dissolves varnish from Formby product, by adding or scraping old finish onto this area so evening out look. So this way one side don't look differ then other side or top. In color shade, dose this make sense to you. Any question feel free to ask again
I like see old old look before and after picture when your done. Best regard.
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Post by bobacker on Sept 28, 2011 23:36:47 GMT -5
P.S. when use Formby's Furniture or any stripper, make sure do it outside or in your garage keep your door open. so have plenty of freash air.. the stuff is very fume.
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Post by bobacker on Sept 29, 2011 20:10:34 GMT -5
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Post by pcimei on Oct 4, 2011 8:49:36 GMT -5
bobacker. thank you for your comments and advice. I will oil and grease. the lacquer is dark and cracked. The phonograph is in excellent condition and i hate to remove the old look. It plays great and looks like it has been taken good care of. where do you live. I live in Oklahoma.
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Post by bobacker on Oct 4, 2011 10:12:19 GMT -5
Your lucky it in such good of shape, that don't need to do very much with it. I have also old RCA record player, I'm still deciding if want recondition it or not. I brought it back in 1973. It still run like a charm! I live in place call Columbus, Ohio. I don't care much about living here. but have live some where. I been to Oklahoma 9 years ago, if very nice place to visit, so much to see and do there.
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Post by pcimei on Oct 4, 2011 12:18:59 GMT -5
do you know the best place to get edison records that are inexpensive and in good condition?
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Post by bobacker on Oct 4, 2011 21:28:17 GMT -5
No I don't know. When I brought my Hepplewhite, it had 16 records in it. Other I had to bid for them on Ebay.com, it best buy them in a lot, then single. They are not cheap, but sometime get lucky at a flea market, or old record store. If you find them there pay no more then $2.00, stock up on as many as you can. Sometime they sell on eBay for .99 cent, but by the time they ship it to you, they got you there. I wouldn't pay more then $5 or less. You have shop around ask people where you live, or other state near you. Good Luck!
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Post by martinola on Oct 4, 2011 21:48:00 GMT -5
Before reaching for any stripper, I suggest cleaning with Kotten Klenser or non-pumice Go-Jo. (Followed up by Howards Feed-N-Wax.) I've had great results with both KK and GJ. Wipe it on with paper towels wait a few seconds and wipe it off. It's best to do it in a couple of sessions. The trick is not to go too far with them. They will soften the finish temporarily, but will harden up after a week or two. It won't look like new, but it will look way better and still be original. Once you strip, it can never be original again.
If I recall correctly, the B-19 is red gum with a mahogany-like dark finish. If you strip it, there won't be much in the way of pronounced grain. Oak has a very open and pronounced grain. Mahogany has a tighter grain that is still somewhat open. Good luck with your machine!
-Martin
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Post by bobacker on Oct 5, 2011 11:34:01 GMT -5
Martinola, I never try that stuff Kotten Klenser or non-pmice Go-Jo. My question to you dose this stuff take out deep scratch mark, where the varnish was scrap off wood base, look more like deep scratch to wood? Would it mend or fill or blend in look, so look evening again?
Where best place to pick up at?
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Post by martinola on Oct 5, 2011 15:41:55 GMT -5
Go Jo and Kotten Klenser won't do anything about deep scratches or missing finish. They just get the finish clean of the years of gunk and residue. Depending how much is missing, the deep scratches/missing finish can be touched-up by a variety of methods to render them less visible (or in some cases invisible). Some people use special heating irons and colored shellac sticks for touch-ups. My preference is to use the easiest, most reversible method. Partly it's because I'm lazy and partly it's because I may want to do a better, more permanent restoration (like re-amalgamation) later. For example, I lent a mahogany Victrola to a Children's museum for an exhibit. As you might expect, it came back to me with some damage. After rehooking the springs and replacing the mica in the reproducer, I had to clean up the outside and fill in some deep scratching in the lid. I used Go-Jo with the very slightest application of 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper to very slightly flatten out the old rough finish. Be careful especially at the edges and corners: in a couple of spots I took off too much color and had to use a touch-up felt marker. Once it was all cleaned, I used dark crayola crayons to do a quick fill-in of the missing color. After burnishing-off the excess crayon with cotton (paper towel would work), I finished the whole case off with an application of Howard's feed-n-wax. The nice thing about this is that the crayon can be removed later with paint thinner if needed. It's not a perfect match, but hides the damage sufficiently to enjoy the piece without having to refinish. Go-Jo can be had at many auto parts stores. Kotten Klenser can be ordered online at: kottonklenser.com/For a more professional job of filling (with a higher price and learning curve) one can use Shellac sticks (or "Burn-in sticks"). Here's a link for a supplier: shellac.net/BurnInDamageRepair.htmlIf you google these, I'm sure you'll find all sorts of different suppliers out there. Good luck on your project, and keep us posted. Regards, Martin |
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