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Post by berntd on Feb 5, 2013 16:34:09 GMT -5
Hello
I have just run up my Edison standard for the first time now. I have not done a disassemble rebuild yet but I did oil it and made sure everything turns and runs freely. It does.
I wind it up and then it runs nicely. The speed regulator disc hits the felt pad and everything is cool. Carriage moves across and it will run for about 5 minutes like that.
Now I add a cylinder and try and play it. Immediately, the motor starts slowing down to a really slow speed and it will stop.
I lift the carriage and immediately it goes up to speed again.
The only way to play a cylinder is to basically overwind it and add somewhat more power to the motor by torquing the crank.
What is the most likely cause of this problem?
Best regards Bernt
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Post by maroongem on Feb 5, 2013 16:52:20 GMT -5
Hi Bernt,
The first thing that comes to mind is that the half nut is bearing too hard on the feedscrew. This can be remedied by carefully bending the half nut bar upwards ever so slightly so that when you lower the carriage it doesn't bear down too heavily. You may have to play around a bit until you get the correct adjustment. Another issue could be old hardened oil in the feed screw threads. The feed screw should be completely free of old oil or grease as well as the half nut. Some people lightly oil the feed screw after it is cleaned but I find that if you leave the lid off, dust attaches itself to the oil and over time gets tacky. A shot of silicon would be better.
BillF
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Post by berntd on Feb 5, 2013 19:28:28 GMT -5
Hi Bill If it is the half nut, then would it not also stop without a cylinder playing? The cariage travels across correctly while the motor goes, if no cylinder is inserted. Hmm.
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Post by maroongem on Feb 5, 2013 19:50:05 GMT -5
Not necessarily, Bernt. The cylinder just adds even more drag. What model is this Standard? I looked back and didn't see one listed in your posts. Does this machine have an end gate? Is the knife edge free of rust and old grease? Is there good tension on the belt? There are several reasons for the machine to stop and you just have to eliminate them one by one.
BillF
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Post by berntd on Feb 5, 2013 20:35:30 GMT -5
Thanks Bill.
I will investigate further.
It is a Model A 2minute only.
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Post by nefaurora on Feb 5, 2013 23:58:50 GMT -5
Not enough oil in the works, or too tight a belt tension... Check both... Tony K.
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Post by berntd on Feb 7, 2013 3:33:37 GMT -5
Hello Thanks for the help, greatly appreciated!! I disassembled the whole thing today and you folks were right, there was heaps of dirt in the thread of the feed screw. I used a needle to clean it out and then a toothbrush. I cleaned the whole motor, checked it and oiled it etc etc etc. I opened the spring barrel but could not get the the centre shaft out and so the spring did not come out. However, the barrel seemed full of good slippery black grease! The pinion gear on the next gear just after the spring barrel gear is - shall we say - somewhat worn! Anyway, long story short, it works a lot better now but it will still slow down at about 1/2 of a record played and then it will whine through the rest. Basically, it only works properly while the spring is just about fully wound to the nearest click. It works beautifully for at least 12 (15?) minutes now, if no record is inserted. Everything is free and turns sweetly. I also noticed that some of the records (OK, cylinders) want to really shift to the right, along with the carriage. Some have pushed off the mandrel and one even hit the gate. They are Gold Mould 2 min records. Last thing, something in the motor keeps making loud clonking and snapping sounds. These are sometimes rhythmic but not to any gear revolutions I can see. Regards Bernt
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Post by berntd on Feb 7, 2013 15:47:45 GMT -5
Hello again
I will try and remove the spring, just to be sure and to get rid of the clonking.
How do I remove the spring form the barrel?
I mean I know how to do it on other gramophones but on this barrel, I can't seem to get the centre shaft out of the spring.
Should I proceed while the shaft is still on the spring and just pull it out and unwind it?
It seems like one huge strong wide spring...
Best regards Bernt
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Post by maroongem on Feb 7, 2013 19:11:49 GMT -5
Bernt,
It is a very strong spring and I wouldn't suggest removing it in that manner. You should be able to unhook the arbor from the main spring with a little effort and then proceed to carefully remove the main spring from the barrel. I would suggest wearing heavy gloves and eye protection and perhaps do this inside a bucket or barrel in the event that the spring gets away from you.
BillF
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Post by berntd on Feb 7, 2013 20:15:03 GMT -5
Hi bill Maybe I am not doing it right because I really can't seem to get the spring unhooked from the arbor. When removing the barrel, it has a gear on one side and on the other side it has the ratched mechanism. Currently, I pull on the ratched mechanism side and the lid of the barrel, completely with the arbor comes out but it stays attached to the spring. I can't seem do anything meaningful through the 4 holes on the other end to try and loosen it either. This thing is not clockmaker spring winder material. It needs a tower clock winder Oh and if I do get it out, can you tell from the size if I need a new one at all? Regards Bernt
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