New Owner of Edison Home Phonograph

[pking]

I'm new to this forum. I just acquired an Edison Home Phonograph. I have searched the Internet to learn as much as I can. I have a few questions, and any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated. First, it is serial no. H166989 with a last patent date of 1903 -- when was this made? Second, how can I tell if it is a 2 minute or a 4 minute machine? It has only one pulley on the top, so I don't think it's both a 2 minute and a 4 minute model. Third, I would like to get a cylinder, but I'm not sure what type of cylinder to purchase. I have a reproducer with a C, but I'm not sure if this is correct, and I don't want to ruin any cylinders. Thank you in advance for your help.

[maroongem]

Hi and welcome to the board! To answer your 1st question about dating your machine one of our members, Phonogfp, may be able to assist you. Where you say you have a single pulley, your machine is a either a MOD. A,B, or C depending as to where your speed control is and whether the machine still retains an endgate. If the speed control is above the bedplate, it would be a Mod. A. If below, it would be a B or C with the B still retaining the endgate and the C without. I'm thinking by your serial number that it is an A.
Your machine is strictly for 2M play and you have the correct Reproducer for this mode.
You are safe to play any of the 2M cylinders, either wax or celluloid and some of these are Edison (wax), Columbia (wax & celluloid), Indestructible (celluloid) and U.S. Everlasting (celluloid). These are the most common brands that you will find in the U.S. but there are other foreign 2M cylinders that will play as well.

Bill

[shellophone]

Please examine the stylus of your reproducer under high-powered magnification and a bright light to be certain the sapphire is intact and the degree of wear. The 2-minute stylus looks like a doorknob and any wear would show at the point where contact with the record is made. The stylus can be
loosened and turned to bring an unworn surface to play, but this should be done by someone who has experience. I know of one person who will rebuild and tune your reproducer for no labor charge -- just shipping and parts (usually less than $1 for gaskets). Let me know if you'd like their contact information.

Is the diaphragm in your reproducer mica (clear) or copper?
John M

[bostonmike1]

Congratulations on your new machine. contact Steven Medved in Kissimmee Florida at [e-mail] ---he is the best in my opinion at reproducer repair. He only charges for parts , he will explain to why he is this generous. Bill,(maroongem)gave you the best answer to your question and he can be your a great resource to you. Michael

[phonogfp]

Your "Home" Phonograph was probably manufactured in early 1906. If it has a banner type decal on the front of the cabinet that states, "EDISON HOME PHONOGRAPH," it was made between October 1905 and the summer of 1906. No.159xxx is a model B with a banner decal. Yours is roughly 7000 later, so it may have a one word decal, "Edison." If so, yours dates from the latter half of 1906. That's about as close as I can date it.

Congratulations, and enjoy your new Edison! Bill, John, and Mike have given you good advice.

George P.

[pking]

I thank all of you for the help! I really appreciate the information. I think I'm set up, ready to go -- I just need a cylinder and hope that it works. Is ebay the best place for me to find a cylinder, or do any of you have a favorite website that would be better for me checkout? Thanks, again!

[nefaurora]

I thought that 1904 was the last year of the "Banner" decals. From what I have seen, 1905 models have the "Edison" decal and ads of the era support this. I have 1904 original ads showing the Banner decals, and I have 1905 original ads showing "Edison" decals. , So 1904 to 1905 was the transition.

Tony Kovar
Melbourne, FL
([e-mail])

[matty]

The "Model B" range of machines was indeed introduced in 1905, but Edison was never one to waste anything, so the new "antique oak" finish cabinets got the banner decals until remaining stocks were used up.

[nefaurora]

Ok, I'll buy that one, It makes sense, so you are saying that Model "A" long bedplates were used all the way up to 1905?? I do have one original ad from 1904 indeed showing a Model "A" home (long bedplate) in the newer cabinet with the banner decal. I own two Model "B" home units with short bedplates also with newer cabinets with serial numbers H151647 and H187598. Both have dark green oak finishes and are in excellent physical condition with indeed original Banner decals (definately not repro decals) for anyone keeping research numbers here.

Thanks,

Tony Kovar
Melbourne, FL
([e-mail])

[billcahill]

Huh?? The model B NEVER came in a green oak finnished case.
Only the model A. And, it is wider than the B.
The early model B lines came with a banner decal.
The B standard also in a "New style" tall case.

I'd reccommend buying the Frow book on Edison phonographs to get the straight information.
Bill Cahill

[nefaurora]

Ok, So what was the Darker finish called then??

Both of my Early Model B's definately have the darker finishes

What would you call the finish???

I am looking for the Frow book. I hear that its good.

Thanks,

Tony K.

[matty]

The dark finish used on Model B, C, D etc phonographs was known as antique oak.
The Model A's were finished in "green oak", which is a light yellow colour, but a green dye was also used under the shellac finish which gives a green fleck to the grain.

[maroongem]

Tony,

Probably the easiest way to tell if your case is "green oak" is to look inside the lid or inside the case. You will see a definite flat green stain/tint to the wood.

Bill

[billcahill]

Feb 21, 2010 15:21:25 GMT -5 @matty said:

The dark finish used on Model B, C, D etc phonographs was known as antique oak.
The Model A's were finished in "green oak", which is a light yellow colour, but a green dye was also used under the shellac finish which gives a green fleck to the grain.

Actually, the yellow bright finnish, I believe, was called golden oak. Some of the later machines were made in that.
Green oak actually was a somewhat dark green color.
Not real dark, though.
The model A case would be wider. Thhat's the one that came in dark green.
That would also have a two piece bed plate, and, the main one is much wider than the B.
Also, the model A crank is S shaped, cast iron, painted black, and, slips on winding shaft. The crank has locating slots that match a pin going through center of winding shaft.

After the model A, according to Frow, people were complainning that the green oak clashed with the then popular antiqque oak design of the era. Later, golden oak became somewhat popular.
Some collectors, and, dealers, not realizing how to do the green oak, or, thinking someone had painted the case, stripped them, and, did them in golden oak.
Hope this helps.....
Bill Cahill

[billcahill]

Also, when you thumb through the Frow book, case finnishes were changed often.
Some later machines were still done in antique oak, some fumed oak, and, some in golden oak....
Fumed oak appears to have been a somewhat duller oak.
I have seen at least one Amberola 30 like that.
Mahoganny was always a dark, redish brown color...
Hope you find the Frow book soon. The second edition isn't as good as the first, though. The shrunk the size of photos considerably in second edition.
I lost my first edition years ago, and, only have the second, now.
Bill Cahill