HORN PAINT STRIPPING

[bostonmike1]

Hello everyone---A student at an Art School in N.Y.C. ----I saw two weeks the work she did on another Morninglory horn,and she is more than fantastic-----will be doing mine shortly. My job besides paying for this service is to prep the horn-- i.e. removing the old paint. I tried this past weekend the over the counter paint stripper,but it's removal time is extremely slow and does not remove it all. Has anyone ever attempted such a project and what did you use? My next thought is aircraft paint remover but am concerned of any damage it (or me) will cause. Sure could use your help. Michael

[slippery]

Hi

Just a thought but I've used caustic soda for many years to strip paint,it doesn't always work on all paint but the older stuff usually just falls off.If you're not familiar with it,it comes as a coarse powder and is sold by farm/dairy supply shops-at least it is here in the UK.For something like a horn I would get hold of a metal container about the size of an oil drum (don't use Aluminium) and fill it about half full with water and mix in the caustic soda until no more dissolves,at a guess about 5kg (be careful it gets HOT-wear gloves and eye protectors and have a supply of water nearby)check there's no aluminium or pot metal parts on the horn and in it goes,if you do it whilst it's still hot it will take only a few minutes,wash off several times with clean water.The mixture will keep indefinitely and can be used many many times,you'll have to leave it in longer when cold especially in the winter,overnight even. Cast iron,steel,brass,copper,bronze are all fine but aluminium and zinc alloys will slowly dissolve away. Don't be tempted to strip wood - pine is ok but most hardwood will split or turn a horrible colour.

[matty]

I also use caustic soda for stripping metals- I think you call it Lye in the USA.
I use mums laundry tubs as a strip tank but as Slippery suggests, a metal (or even plastic) drum of the correct size would be perfect.
Just be sure to use PLASTIC gloves & not rubber, as it with dissolve rubber as well.
It only costs about $4 for 500g container here, and is sold in the supermarket with other cleaning agents, draino etc.

[bostonmike1]

Thank you both for yor help. G.S. show us your new Gem when you get the chance. Michael

[matty]

This is it so far. It's not perfect but it's an improvement. I still have to get a full set of decals for it. The base of course is totally wrong, but I wasn't going to waste a good piece of oak when I didn't know the correct size to make it, and I didn't want to waste my time hand carving the edge either
I'm going to hang back on making another base for now, Hopefully I'll find an original base & lid in the future, or if I can only find a lid, I'll make up a base of the correct size & profile, & try to match up the finish to the lid.
I also want to get a repro 10" horn for this one. I dont see the sense in getting an original seeing as the whole machine has been repainted & it might possibly end up with a repro base.

[bostonmike1]

G.S.---Wonderful job so far and I totally agree with your reasoning. Did you ever ask Mark Gaisser for your parts needs and did you ever get in touch with Greg Cline for your decal requirements? They are both good guys. Either way, good luck. If you need their respective addresses let me know. Michael

[saxymojo]

Hi Shane
That base looks to be about the right size, I can measure mine and send you pictures if that helps.
Regards Marcel

[matty]

Thanks Marcel. I actually asked about the size on the other board & was told 10" wide by 7-¾" deep, but it probably wouldn't hurt to double check. I'm also not sure what thickness the board is, but I'm guessing it's 5/8"??

Michael, I haven't contacted anyone regarding parts or decals yet. Just haven't got around to it, but I will eventually

[bostonmike1]

G.S.----GEM LID FOR SALE ON EBAY---IN AUSTRALIA---HURRY. Michael

[maroongem]

5/8ths should do well. I miked up a few of my GEM bases and they are all around .587 or so. 5/8ths is .625 but wood does shrink as it dries out.

Bill

[matty]

That lid belongs to Mario. He offered it to me, but it's actually for a Model A, and I haven't got the heart to strip it for the sake of a decal change. If it had been in a little worse condition I wouldn't have minded so much, but the banner decal looks quite good so I'd rather see it go to the right model (hopefully).

[bostonmike1]

G.S.-------YOU ARE A PURIST AT HEART!! I'll still keep my eyes open for you. Michael

[matty]

Thanks Michael.