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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Mar 18, 2009 20:34:42 GMT -5
Now that I am finally moved in, I wanted to begin to disassemble the Amberola 30. I will admit that I may need a schematic to figure out how it goes back together (doh!). Blame this on enthusiasm. First off, the only serial number I could find is stamped on the underside of the bedplate, number 46,541. There is no dataplate on the bedframe or the case lid. The reproducer number does not match this (as expected). The black finish is in excellent shape and I'm probably just going to try to degrease it, rub some automotive wax on it, and just leave it with the nice aged look. The case will require a lot more work, particularly with veneer repair and there is one joint that gave way that will need to be reglued. The inside of the horn is rusted and I'm not fully sure how to clean and repaint this. All suggestions are readily welcomed. Anyways, here are some pictures:
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Mar 14, 2009 16:51:11 GMT -5
In the process of moving, a very good friend gave me an early birthday gift, an Amerbola 30. It needs a good cleaning, probably a refinish on all the black parts and the horn, and the front and top grills. The thing I'm curious about just looking at the unit is that the front horn edge does not have a post and screw holding it in place. There was a pin that was soldered at some to the edge of the horn that broke free. Is this an early design as opposed to the later post and nut method?
(I realize without pictures I am making no sense. I still have tons to move, so I'll try to get some up this coming week).
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Mar 8, 2009 10:22:29 GMT -5
I have, needless to say, a great deal of striving to do to achieve the level of restoration work you can do. My woodworking skills are slowly improving, but so much of this is just picking up bits and pieces of info here and there and trying them out. Learning nickel plating is the next challenge I need to tackle.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Mar 8, 2009 9:41:12 GMT -5
I have yet to work on the top. I have all the paperwork to file for insurance, but I think I'm just going to try and put it back together myself and nuts to the insurance. I am in the process of moving to a new apartment. As of now I'm just trying to get this player literally up to speed.
The more I read and see other people's work, the more I feel incredibly bad at getting my stuff to look "authentic" in finish. Ah well, practice makes perfect as they say.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Mar 8, 2009 9:38:09 GMT -5
Dang Martin, I am not worthy. Wow o Wow!!!
I do have a ruined D bedplate (it came with this junker I bought on ebay, from which I have scavenged parts from it bit by bit to rebuild these other two Ds) that needs to be completely striped and refinished. I'm going to maybe mix up the one formula (http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/Galoots/pRMorin/html/elmorain_recipe.html see the Cold method) and see how it works.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Mar 8, 2009 8:49:13 GMT -5
Perhaps someone can mix up a batch for the forum folks The only version I have seen (regarding restoration) was flake shellac, denatured alcohol, and nigrosene dye. This, IMHO, is not as durable as the original formulas, hence why I was curious to see what I could find. I may try to make one or two or these on a small scale to see how well they work.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Mar 7, 2009 10:28:17 GMT -5
I took a punch, wrapped some 400 grit sandpaper around it, and reamed out the brushing. A little oil later and they spin well. Now I have to get the shaft ends spinning freely and try to get the belts to cooperate.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Mar 7, 2009 10:16:31 GMT -5
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Mar 6, 2009 15:22:57 GMT -5
Once you install the brushing, how in heck do you get the mandrel to spin freely?
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Mar 6, 2009 9:18:25 GMT -5
The shiny bit of metal you see by the hole is the edge of the remains of the old reproducer screw. The darn thing refuses to loosen.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Mar 6, 2009 9:17:09 GMT -5
Here are some pictures of the case. I buffed down the the shellac with some steel wool and then put a little orange oil on it to try and balance out the bedframe with the case. Part of the case refused to take stain, and the bedframe just doesn't match. Furthermore, even though I used the original screw holes, the frame is not evenly lined up on top with the holes for the lid locks. Beats me. I'm giving this one to my older sister as a gift. She wanted the machine to show it's age, so all I did was polish what I could and just cleaned everything topside. The motor was disassembled and cleaned up (and runs great!).
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Mar 5, 2009 19:01:53 GMT -5
I'm sorry for not posting photos of the drilled out screw...I'm in the process of moving and just plain tired right now. I received my D mandrel bearings, locking screws, and case decals. Unfortunately, the first decal simply crumbled when I tried to apply it, and the second crumbled at the top of the E in the long extension. I'm just a bit annoyed that the one decal was junked and the other damaged, but well, #*@& happens. I'm hoping to have the case shellaced later tonight with one or two more coats, then a sanding tomorrow so I can put everything back together. In regards to the D, I don't see how you can get it to operate the four minute gearing unless you flip the mandrel gear.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 26, 2009 11:56:43 GMT -5
Hi Yall,
Well, the jeweler was unable to weld anything to the end. He drilled out just enough to see the faint edges of the original threading, but that is all. I have not been able to pry out the remains of the screw as it must be rusted in good and tight. Does anyone know a good way to get this out perhaps chemically, and if not, what size tap fits the reproducer locking screw hole?
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 26, 2009 9:15:12 GMT -5
The cylinder was shaved flat, and the new person recording it recorded it so far to the beveled edge that I can't play it that far on my Standard B.
I can hear the name of the girl singing at the very beginning, and you can hear singing...I just can't make out the words. I don't think it was recorded with a four minute stylus, but perhaps I am mistaken.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 24, 2009 22:28:13 GMT -5
I guess that's the problem with brown wax cylinders not having the title on the end. I had a similar situation where I bid on what was listed as 2 early Edison cylinders, but they turned out to be french Pathes. If it were me, I wouldn't mind too much- depending what it cost. If I see home recordings at a reasonable price I'll buy them. I find them an interesting part of phono history, and they are unique. If I get any that are a little moldy or badly recorded, I shave them & re-record on them, so they're never wasted. No, this is a black Gold Mold cylinder. What is sad is that the box lid matches the cylinder markings...but yet it's been recorded over. Well, I'll hold on to it as an oddity...maybe one day I can figure out what exactly these girls are singing, haha.
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