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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 14, 2009 23:23:17 GMT -5
I just started reassembling the bed frame. The lid I am going to give to a friend with years and years of wood working experience so he can get it functional again. The metal looks functional. The only issue (case aside) that I've found is that the reproducer locking screw has broken off in the carriage. I don't think a screw extractor is out there small enough to remove this, so it looks like I need a drill press. Anyone know a machine shop that could fix this?
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 14, 2009 14:33:30 GMT -5
At least I don't see as many tiny pieces (kidding). Well, I have the contact info on the person I bought it from. I need the original receipt and insurance paperwork so I can file a claim with the USPS. The mandrel also has a gouge in it, but it should be removed with careful filing. The one gear had the teeth gently bent in on it...again, I may just have to get a replacement...sigh. USPS insurance claims I know are a bear. Hopefully I'll get an email from this person to mail me the paperwork. Otherwise, I guess I start carefully regluing and rebuilding...
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 14, 2009 10:48:49 GMT -5
I may have mentioned that I bought two Standard Model Ds. Both had intact lids. The other arrived today. These photos give you an idea of my anger right now: <a href="http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/pastfinder/Smashed%20Phonograph/?action=view¤t=100_0993.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/pastfinder/Smashed%20Phonograph/100_0993.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> I requested the seller mail me all the original receipts, insurance paperwork, etc. The box is even stamped "package services," so someone at the USPS either packed or signed off on the packing. I don't think the lid can be saved...it's pretty farked up. The bedframe I think is salvagable. If anyone can get me good prices on what a replacement Standard D lid and bedframe runs for, I'd greatly appreciate it. As for the box, it's dinged all over but I don't think I could collect anything on it.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 12, 2009 7:58:29 GMT -5
The serial number is stamped at the top of the base of the horn connector on this particular part.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 11, 2009 22:42:03 GMT -5
Howdy Martin,
Many thanks for the info. Honestly, I don't know if I have the top of an H or a C. The serial number on the reproducer is A90?7924. The ? may be a 4...it has a triangle resemblance. Other than this, it is just the top, and locking ring for the diaphragm, and the worn diaphragm. I need the tail weight, screw, and stylus first.
As for the finish, again, I'm going to take it to my friend the carpenter (who is going to repair a crack in it) and see what he recommends. He's restored around twenty phonograph cases, so he has 19 up on me, haha.
Cheers, Frank
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 11, 2009 20:50:47 GMT -5
Martin,
I cleaned the bedplate with naptha and Formula 409. After this I applied a layer of basic carnuba Turtle Wax to give it a shine and seal the metal in spots from surface rusting. The diaphragm is copper on the remains of this reproducer. I MAY attempt to rebuild it, but note this is a BIG may. We shall see. If it is cheaper to just get an H reproducer repro, I may do this.
As for the case, I used some simple furniture cleaner/oil and lightly wiped some surface grime off the case bottom and bed frame. I then took some 0000 steel wool and tried to remove some white paint streaks from the bottom sides of the case. Most of it came off, but it looks like some of the really tough spots will require more. I see your point on not refinishing the case, and I am going to take this advice. A friend who is a carpenter and restores Columbia and Victrola phonographs is going to help me repair a crack in the front (by the horn attachment slot) and give me hands on guidance for refinishing the case. A nice evening of the shellac, followed by some new coats should restore it just nicely. Since I've letter the original bedplate finish alone, it makes sense to leave the decal alone. Really I just want this player to be clean and functional, but not restored to like new. I'd rather it show the age and its character as such.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 10, 2009 22:41:41 GMT -5
All I'm largely doing on this unit is cleaning it and refinishing the case. My Mom and Dad bought it (ebay find) and I'm just going to get it running. The original finish is worn but still in great shape so I intend to leave it alone for the antique look rather than make it look like new. Here are some before cleaning and after cleaning photos: Motor Before Motor After. This is the first time I have ever completely disassembled a motor (governor included) to clean it and reassemble it. I think it came out well. Bedplate and Top Gearing Before Bedplate After. Really this came down to degreasing and polishing. The previous owner took good care of this unit (it came out of an estate sale according to the auction). The case finish is poor, but it came complete with all but the reproducer (the top is here...it's original, but it is missing the tailweight, stylus, etc. etc.), and one of two small screws. I need to buy a new mandrel bearing (hence the piece of rag), a reproducer locking screw, and a new case decal to have it all together. I should have the case fixed up this weekend. The best part is that the lid has the entire label for changing reproducers intact and in great shape!
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 10, 2009 1:26:47 GMT -5
Thanks for the help yall. I need to buy a new mandrel bearing, as the pot metal one was swollen and cracked. I removed it piece by piece and guess I need a brass one now. I reassembled the top part and am now working on the motor. The governor almost looks like it is original, and different than the one on my Standard B, and the parts Standard D I have. Most peculiar. I'll get photos up in a bit...for tomorrow I just want to get the motor disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 9, 2009 18:07:32 GMT -5
Hmm, that's funny: mine doesn't even have a spring clip! Is this on the 2&4 min gear? On the 2/4 gear...there is a flat part on the shaft where this spring sat.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 9, 2009 17:30:09 GMT -5
Woohoo, got the gear off, but that spring clip busted off
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 9, 2009 14:10:41 GMT -5
I have two Standard Ds coming in and I just can't figure out how to remove the 2/4 gear. The screw refuses to budge (I'm going to try some penetrating oil in a bit) and I don't want to force anything for obvious reasons.
Ideas anyone?
Secondly, what is the best modern method to clean the original black finish? I don't want to damage it since there are no chips (just wear on the decals and pin striping) and I just wanted to clean off old grime and polish it up. Reiss mentions literally soap and water, but I'm leery of this if I can't get the gear mentioned above removed. Suggestions?
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 6, 2009 22:00:10 GMT -5
Update: Changed out the original halfnut with my nice new repro and the unit plays perfectly Woohoo! Now I just need a lid for my Standard B and it is 100% complete.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 6, 2009 21:22:34 GMT -5
I have Reiss's book. It is helpful in some areas, and less so in others. The bulk of your comments are non-applicable to my situation, but the half-nut (it is the original and I have a spare repro in perfect shape I may install) and the reproducer lock down I will tinker with and get back with you
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 6, 2009 18:05:14 GMT -5
I picked up a repro witch's hat today. The player is skipping and repeating at points. I checked the feedscrew and it is free of any damage. I checked any glide points and they are clean. The guide rod for the carriage is lubricated, and I timed the unit and it plays fine. It is only skipping when the horn (and it's weight) is on the reproducer.
So...what can I do to stop the skipping?
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 4, 2009 0:35:34 GMT -5
Many thanks Martin. My biggest lesson learned is with painting, mainly to use better paint than I did and less primer. Wyatt's said to just mail it back and they'll fix the spring. Shame they are on the other side of the country from me.
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