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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Nov 10, 2009 18:37:53 GMT -5
Performed by Sergei Rachmaninoff himself! Edison DD 82169
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Nov 7, 2009 17:11:22 GMT -5
UPDATE: I think I figured out why the seam is separating on the one leg...the player was buy a heat vent or radiator. The wood by the one leg was much lighter, discolored, and rough from drying out. I just applied a ton of linseed oil to the area to try and moisten the wood a bit. The oak keeps soaking it up, so I keep adding a bit here and there.
For what is it worth, there are cracks in the base of the oak legs. Would it be best to try and squirt some wood glue in these cracks (look like drying or stress cracks) to try and seal them off?
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Nov 7, 2009 15:59:07 GMT -5
Bill,
I just wish I knew what the hell I was doing when it comes to cabinet work...I'm more inclined to turn it over to a pro and bite the bullet to ensure it's done right. Guess I have to start reading up on the dos and don'ts on restoring the cabinet.
Frank
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Nov 7, 2009 10:39:02 GMT -5
Larry, Thanks for the info. Maroongem told me the same thing so it's reassuring to know all are in agreement I'm probably going to wait until January...since I don't have the time at the moment to work on it. While repairing the seam, I'm probably going to change out or remove the wheels and put carpet sliders on the phonograph instead. As of now, the only way I can move it around is with a hand cart! Frank
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Nov 7, 2009 8:41:58 GMT -5
Many thanks, Martin. My biggest concern is stabilizing the case and somehow repairing the seam in the back where the one leg is separating from the panel. It's at the very bottom where the oak is driest. My inclination is to just save up and have the case brought to a professional where they can repair the seam and even out or repair some of the damage in back. My view is that it is easy to screw something up and turn a cheap repair into a more expensive repair. For the time being, I'm just liberally oiling the oak to rejuvenate it a bit.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Nov 6, 2009 23:05:47 GMT -5
This was one of the discs that came with the player. This is also a recording with the original gaskets. I just changed out the gaskets on this reproducer with new ones, so the sound should improve a tad. Guess I'll have to make another recording.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Nov 6, 2009 21:41:34 GMT -5
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Nov 6, 2009 18:32:22 GMT -5
This was hard to pass up. The player came with 92 discs (88-89 are still playable), plus the original drawer dividers were present, along with some of the original paper sales sleeves for some of the discs. For those wonder, YES, you can fit a C-250 in the back of a 2007 Corolla. Unfortunately, I tore up a bit of the door seal, so it's off to get some silicon to repair that. In terms of the player, the previous owner had this for 25 years...and never played it. He bought is solely to have for decorative value. Some of the DDs in it I doubt were touched in years. Hard to believe, but it is what he told me. The diaphragm's link was disconnected from the stylus when I picked it up...but after reconnecting it, the sound is fantastic. I am inclined to believe at some point the original felt was replaced. It looks too dark and too good. Felt pieces were present under the bedplate, so if the motor was removed, whoever did it replaced the felt. The decals are in amazing condition for this player. The bad...the oak is VERY VERY dry. I kept applying linseed oil and the wood was soaking it up like a sponge. The rear legs are very dry and the wood on the edges of the legs is pretty battered. There are some small veneer chips on the bottom and one on the backside. On the backside, the one leg and the panel are starting to separate. As such, I have removed all the discs from the storage drawers, and will probably keep it this way to minimize the weight on the legs. Down the road I'll probably find a furniture expert to repair the legs and just fix the cabinet all-around. There is no key. One of the two tiny screws holding the key escutcheon is broken off...anyone know where I can get one of these tiny screws? The most annoying issue is that the crank handle is BENT. It works, but needs to be straightened out. I tried straightening it out myself but only made a tiny bit of progress. Lastly, a few of the tiny little trim pieces are missing...mostly in the back. In terms of the discs, all but five are non-paper labels. Well over half of them are operas or ballets, in some cases there is no flip side on the disc...the one side is merely a continuation of the prior side. A few have what appears to be mold growth on them. I used some alcohol to clean the one off and it plays okay, but very quiet with a lot of white noise...guessing these might be write-offs. Lastly, the wild thing? The data plate lists this as "SM 6703." It's clearly an early C-250, but it is THIS early? Anyways, here are the photos:
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Nov 1, 2009 17:10:59 GMT -5
I have no major issue with it, but I think since we are use to a number of posters who appear and then vanish that you provide a bit of transparency about yourself prior to any financial transactions.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Nov 1, 2009 12:11:32 GMT -5
Larry,
I have two areas I think might be worth exploring. First, the center cork portion of Edison's diaphragms is not flat, but has a slight dome to it. Making a styrofoam center with a slight concave to it might be worth pursuing. Perhaps trying neoprene instead of foam is an idea as well. The concave dome of cork/foam would mimic Edison's original, but also in a way mimic a speaker cone. It's worth tinkering with if you have the time and desire.
Secondly, have you tinkered with gasket thickness any? Maroongem repaired a broken linkage on my LC-38 reproducer, using a thicker bottom gasket. The end result, in both of our opinions, was a much louder reproducer, but yet still clear.
I'm always up to experiment should you get the urge.
Cheers, Frank
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Oct 30, 2009 16:52:23 GMT -5
Here are two vids of Larry's diaphragm in action: "O! Dem Golden Slippers," Dalhart, 52174-R "Covered Wagon Days," 51273-L Take note that I am using a Kodak EasyShare DX7630, in short, a digital camera that can take videos. This is part of the problem with the poor audio, not the diaphragm.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Oct 23, 2009 16:40:40 GMT -5
Many thanks Jim. A member of the forum and great person has offered to loan their reproducer body for measurements if needed. I think before anything we need to spread the word. I'll call Ron and see what he thinks, but before anything, a market needs to be found that is willing to invest in such an endeavor.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Oct 23, 2009 12:13:17 GMT -5
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the info on Ron. Well, brass is an option...my desire would be to keep the costs down on these as much as possible. I point out the Diamond C as they were almost all made out of potmetal and finding one that doesn't have swelling issues is tricky to say the least. Considering the volume of Amberolas out there that used the Diamond C, I would like to think the demand for them would be high if they can be sold at reasonable price.
Frank
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Oct 23, 2009 9:32:36 GMT -5
The reproducer on my Amberola 30 is nickel plated, but still made of potmetal. I am having swelling issues and looked into getting a replacement.
Well, "surprise," Diamond C reproducers are not exactly in high supply and originals still cost a chunk of change.
A thought began in my head...what about producing new Diamond C tops (with the ferrule, diaphragm, etc.)?
Instead of pot metal or pricey brass that is machine, it would be possible to mold the top bodies out of graphite or aluminum. The biggest issue would be the locking ring for the diaphragm. While it is possible to mold the threads, a new ring might need to be provided.
The goal of the top bodies would be to avoid pot metal swelling and broken ferrules in the carriages and horn. The tailweights and other components of the original Diamond C could be transferred over to the top body without issue.
Cost-wise, everything is cheaper in bulk. This is just a thought running around in my head, but I wanted to see if anyone would be interested in seriously looking into this proposition. This being said, could people please spread the word around the net. I'm guessing at least 100 to 200 orders would need to be made to get the cost of this under $100 and more around $50.
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Oct 20, 2009 8:21:22 GMT -5
Shipping is always the killer...if it was nearby, I would have rented a van to go get it, but Arkansas is a tad far from Ohio.
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