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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2007 15:06:15 GMT -5
Well, I am gonig to give imgaeshack a shot.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2007 19:08:20 GMT -5
Here is a better photo.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2007 15:11:54 GMT -5
There are a couple of things, I forgot too mention about this machine. The Serial NO: is 26958. Also It can play two cylinders with one winding. I thought it could do three, but when I play the third cylinder, the record slows down. But, if I lift the stylus off, the machine speeds up, until the spring unwinds completely.
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Post by gramophoneshane on Mar 16, 2007 18:39:17 GMT -5
Ive got the same model, and just tried it- I can actually get through 4x2min cylinders with one wind. Have you pulled the motor apart, and cleaned and re-lubed it all since you got it? Dirty gears, dried up spring barrel grease, and dry govenor felts can really decrease the performance of cylinder machines. (all machines really) If everything looks well lubed, you might have to take the spring barrel out, remove and clean the spring, then put it back together with fresh grease in the barrel. You may also find that the mainspring has been shortened at some stage, and that will greatly reduce the run-time. You may want to get a new spring if thats the case, but seeing its only a 2 min machine, there probably isn't any urgency for a replacement. Try a grease and oil change first though- it can work miracles.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2007 19:10:20 GMT -5
No, I'll have to do that. Seeing as I don't know, how many times it was played, before I got it.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2007 19:45:13 GMT -5
Well Shane, it looks like I am goning to need some grease on the main gear, outside the spring houseing. Most of the grease, has worn off. Do you have any recomendations for grease? The grease on mine is a greyish color.
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Post by gramophoneshane on Mar 17, 2007 0:53:02 GMT -5
If the grease that's there has pretty much gone solid or is overly thick, chances are that it hasn't had the barrel greased etc for 70-80 years- if ever. Unless I get a machine from a collector who's already done it, the first thing I do when I get a machine home is pull the motor down. If it's come from a shop, they've probably found it in an attic or such, and lets face it, most non-collectors don't even know they have to change a steel needle after every record on a victrola, so motor maintainance wouldn't enter their mind! If the spring has been repaired/shortened recently, it may have already been done. The look of the motor & state of the grease should be a pretty good indication as to if it's been done recently though. As for what grease to use- good question! I always think a quality grease that has graphite in it is the way to go. One of the other guys here might be able to recommend a brand & type that they use, but HMV and diamond discs used graphite grease in the barrels, so thats good enough for me. It sounds like the grey grease you mentioned, is probably graphite grease, and probably original too. I think as long as you use a good quality motor grease, you shouldn't have any problems. Let us know if you think it hasn't been done recently, and we can try a post a link with instructions on how to pull the motor down, or we could walk you through it, or you could send it somewhere to get it done. It really depends if your mechanically minded & like tinkering with things, and aren't afraid to get your hands dirty. I've notice some of the guys on the other board seem terrified of pulling a spring out of a barrel, or pulling a motor apart. The springs can be tricky- even dangerous, but I've been doing it since I was about 14, and I'm still in one piece.
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steve
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Post by steve on Mar 17, 2007 15:58:52 GMT -5
Inside the barrel I use flake graphite and Vaseline 10 parts Vaseline 1 part graphite flakes. My standard that was greased in 1982 is still going strong. I like the graphite because it does not smell bad, some grease smells like something died.
On the outside gears I just use Vaseline. Keep an eye on how many cylinders you can play, the home A could play 6 if you can play 2 is sounds like your spring is getting weak, this happened to my standard D, finally it would not play one cylinder.
Steve
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Post by Deleted on Mar 17, 2007 16:32:21 GMT -5
I think your right about the spring, Shane. It feels stiff when I wind it up. also the handle tends to pop back a bit, ast if the spring it not holding, but if I wind it up, it seems fine. I wouldn't know how to even take the thing apart and attempt to fox it.
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Post by gramophoneshane on Mar 20, 2007 1:44:31 GMT -5
Paul, The handle slipping back a bit is a problem with the ratchet that stops the handle turning backwards when its wound up. Its probably best to put a bit of grease or vasoline (or even oil for now) on that straight away. If its got hard grease around this area,its probably stopping the ratchet from operating properly-and that can cause major problems. If it slips enough, it can strip gears and break the spring etc. Just grease the area around the first cog area (both sides including the mechanism on the opposite side of that cog) at the end of the rod the handle screws on to. It might be enough to stop any friction,and help it work a bit better. Something else to watch, is when you open the end gate to change a cylinder. Make sure you push it all the way back (180 degrees) If you only open it so the end gate is pointing in the direction of the handle(90 degrees), and that ratchet slips, the handle can spin round at 1000 miles an hour, and smash the end gate. So its always best to push the end gate back as far as it goes, or as soon as you take the cylinder off the mandrel, close the gate straight away.
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Post by maroongem on Mar 20, 2007 10:02:00 GMT -5
Make sure you push it all the way back (180 degrees) If you only open it so the end gate is pointing in the direction of the handle(90 degrees), and that ratchet slips, the handle can spin round at 1000 miles an hour, and smash the end gate. So its always best to push the end gate back as far as it goes, or as soon as you take the cylinder off the mandrel, close the gate straight away. Not to mention what it does to your hand if said hand is still in the way................. Bill
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Post by Deleted on Mar 20, 2007 15:46:51 GMT -5
Thanks Shane, now I just need to go pick up some grease.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2007 8:41:55 GMT -5
I just realized something, with this machine. The crane for my horn is too small. That's why the chain, hangs at an angle. I need a floor crane for this particular horn. I would need a smaller horn for the carne that I currently have, but actaually, I need to get a 14 inch witches hat.
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Post by gramophoneshane on Apr 11, 2007 14:13:06 GMT -5
Or all of the above! Your crane looks like the edison crane that came with the 12 panel black japanned "home" horn. You could get a floor stand, but I had one years ago on a columbia machine, and it was a right pain in the butt! You could make a shorter end rod to use with your horn, so it doesnt pull on the chain like it does, and put the original away incase you find an edison horn. Thats probably the cheapest and most practical way to go. You could also use a longer rubber connection, but that would look a bit strange, or you could solder a loop further up near the flare, but then thats not original. I just bought a recorder for mine, and have been looking for a 14" witches hat- boy are they expensive now days! I think I've seen the 12 panel horns go cheaper on ebay than what they want for the repro 14". The small horns don't sound anywhere near as good as the larger ones, but they're ok if you only use the machine occasionally, and your short on space. Yours looks good how it is, but the only worry might be with the horn pulling on the reproducer/carry arm, it might be adding to the pressure on the carry arm, and cause a bit more wear than usual. If it was mine, I think I'd be making a new shorter extention for the crane, because the brass horn looks fab! A bit of plated steel bar shouldn't be to hard to find. I'd still keep an eye out for a floor crane, but I wouldn't leave it set up like that much. You'll be forever kicking it, knocking it with the vacume, and they're not very good if you've got dogs or kids around. Then you'd have to take the crane off the machine anyway.
BTW: I just looked at the pic again- Disconnect the rubber connector from the reproducer, and let the horn hang so the chain is straight, then just measure the distance between the reproducer and the end of the horn. If its only 2 or 3 ", a longer rubber might not look too bad. At least then you wont have to make or alter anything. I get the feeling your brass horn is not original to the machine. Usually an after-market, non edison horn would have come with a non edison crane, so I'm guessing yours probably had the 12 panel edison horn originally. Your brass horn is probably a little older than the machine. I think they were "old fashioned" by 1907-08. Of course, anythings possible, and it could be the way its been for the last 100 years too.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2007 15:34:35 GMT -5
Actually, I don't leave mine set up all the time. I keep the lid on the machine when not in use, too keep the dust off. That's also waht is said to do, in the instructions that came with the machine. A longer rubber tube, might just be the answer. The horn is nice when it's set up, the downside however, is that the horn sticks out, plus it is much louder. So to compensate for the volume, I just put a piece of wadded tissue paper, into the horn. Which does the trick. The only reason why, I would want a smaller horn, is because, my condo is small. If I had a larger place, it probabaly wouldn't be that big of a deal. Thanks for the help though, Shane.
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