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Post by maroongem on Dec 18, 2007 16:21:40 GMT -5
Bill Call me crazy, but......... what the heck is ID's and OD's. kevan Sorry Kevan, ID refers to the inner diameter of the adapter (where the smaller reproducer fits) and the OD refers to the outer diameter(this fits in the large carriage arm). Here is a picture of the reducer in situ on my Home Mod. B. Bill
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steve
Full Member
Posts: 130
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Post by steve on Dec 18, 2007 17:17:06 GMT -5
Hi Bill,
On my triumph some reproducers set too low in the adapter so I have had to put 0.020 wire in the adapter to raise the reproducer height. The first adapters were nickel plated brass, the second was iron that was lightly nickeled, then nickel plated pot metal, the final ones are unplated pot metal.
Steve
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Post by maroongem on Dec 18, 2007 17:28:21 GMT -5
Hi Steve,
Heck, the only ones I've been lucky to find are the miserable potmetal ones. I don't really use them anymore as I finally rebuilt my O and stay with that one.
Bill
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kevan
Junior Member
Over Hill and Dale
Posts: 87
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Post by kevan on Dec 18, 2007 18:27:16 GMT -5
Thanks Bill That makes it much clearer now.
As for my doings on the machine, I've cleaned the top of the bed plate to reveil 80% of the gold pin stripping paint, I've cleaned and oiled the 2/4 min added gearing to a point of perfection and cleaned the dead spider out of the inside of the reproducer, freed up the stylus pin to pivit bliss. Checked the connection from the cork die-o-phram to stylus and scraped off dried lacquer drops off the nickel plate finish. heck I've even turn a cylinder by thumbing the gears to hear sound coming from the reproducer. When! I noticed that the pin in the limit loop on the reproducer was tight to one side of the loop. I know you can adjust it But of coarse I do not possess the knowledge, but I'm willing to learn. Hint Hint kevan
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Post by brent on Dec 18, 2007 21:03:40 GMT -5
I'd say your hinge block needs to be freed up. Ideally,the whole reproducer should be overhauled, with new gaskets. For now though, try removing the screw on the top of the reproducer at the pointy end, and clean the screw, and hinge block that the screw holds. Give all the parts here a light oil, and put it back together. This usually is enough to free it up, so as there is good vertical and horizontal movement of the weight and stylus.
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Post by maroongem on Dec 18, 2007 22:36:54 GMT -5
Kevan, You mentioned a dead spider inside your Reproducer. Imagine my surprise when I rebuilt the Diamond Mod. A on my Opera and found SIX of these little critters!!! Bill
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Post by lukewarmwater on Dec 19, 2007 5:12:23 GMT -5
I picked up a mint little Columbia BVT a few years ago. When I got it home and played it, it sounded like c**p. Turns out the reproducer was packed -- and I mean packed -- full of old spiders and their prey. It took a LOT of effort to pick them all out of there since the entire reproducer/carriage is one (very troublesome to rebuild) casting. Luke W.
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kevan
Junior Member
Over Hill and Dale
Posts: 87
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Post by kevan on Dec 19, 2007 10:33:09 GMT -5
Yes Brent I forgot to mention that I had somewhat over hauled the reproducer and the hinge block did move freely but on closer observation I noticed the limit loop is slightly bent to one side and gives it the appearance that the pin is leaning to one side. I was told the reproducer sounds great so I'm hoping I will not have to replace the gaskets. The one spider was dead and was at the bottom of the reproducer throat sitting on the mound of wax that hold the cord to the diaphragm. Spiders were living in my Diamond disc S-19 but did not appear for some weeks. I opened the lid to play some records one day and they formed webs everywhere and there were hundreds of them . I took a vacuum to them and threw out the bag right away. That was a year or so now.
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kevan
Junior Member
Over Hill and Dale
Posts: 87
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Post by kevan on Dec 21, 2007 15:27:49 GMT -5
Well I spent the last day cleaning the motor board. There was so much dirt and grim and dried grease I had to use an engine cleaner called GUNK and it worked really well BEFORE ADD AFTER
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Post by maroongem on Dec 21, 2007 18:37:42 GMT -5
Kevan,
A thorough cleaning!!! Now that's the way they should look. You can put a few dabs of white lithium grease on each of the larger gears and a bit of fine oil (sewing machine oil is good or Marvel Mystery oil) at each of the pivots. That should give you a nice quiet running machine.
Bill
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Post by maroongem on Dec 23, 2007 1:08:53 GMT -5
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kevan
Junior Member
Over Hill and Dale
Posts: 87
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Post by kevan on Dec 23, 2007 10:37:30 GMT -5
Bill
Thanks for the heads up on Marks reducer ring. I think Im going to hold out for a nickel plated one. Or wait to play 2min cylinders on a Gem that I would like to purchase next winter. Still looking for white lithium grease. Any Ideas were to look.
Kevan
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Post by maroongem on Dec 23, 2007 14:56:22 GMT -5
Kevan,
An automotive store will have it. I comes in either a can or spray. Get the can as it is easier to apply than the spray.
Bill
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kevan
Junior Member
Over Hill and Dale
Posts: 87
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Post by kevan on Dec 23, 2007 17:17:19 GMT -5
Hi Bill I found some at our local Hardware store. I'm in a small town so I was running out of resorces. I bought a 200 gram tube, (like toothpaste) for 3.99 can
Can you use this for packing main springs / spring barrel assy. also?
kevan
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Post by maroongem on Dec 23, 2007 17:28:41 GMT -5
Hi Kevan,
I wouldn't recommend using it for the mainsprings. The original grease was flake graphite & vaseline, but I use the blue molybdenum wheel bearing grease. You can buy that in small tubs also at the automotive parts store. I'm sure there are other types of grease that work well this just happens to be the one I've always used.
Bill
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