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Post by klinkmi on Feb 14, 2009 23:18:56 GMT -5
[img src="[/img] ![]() i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr113/klinkmi/DSCF0256.jpg"]    Here are some pictures of my Home Mod. C. The restoration is almost complete or as far as I'm going to take it. The cabinet has been refinished to approximate of what it looked like originally including the hand rubbed Shellac Finish. The Bed plate is original , I just cleaned it up a bit. I have a replacement decal on the way. The horn is original although it does have some scratches I have to touch up. The crane is a reproduction. The entire motor including the mainspring have been cleaned and lubricated. This was the first phono that I have restored in 20 years. I started at about 14 and am glad to see I didn't forget certain techniques. Mike |
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Post by klinkmi on Feb 14, 2009 23:41:31 GMT -5
I did try to show the set screw on the pulley but I couldn't get the right lighting or angle. I'm guessing that the wire on the outside was some type of stabilizer.
Mike
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Post by maroongem on Feb 15, 2009 7:43:19 GMT -5
Mike,
I can see the screw and I think you're right, that is some kind balancer/flutter control. Why they aren't on all of them seems to be the mystery. That motor is nicely done!!!
Bill
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 15, 2009 9:33:13 GMT -5
Gorgeous work. So you are applying the decal between layers of shellac? I place mine right on the wood before applying the shellac to the case. Either way, it looks great!
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Post by klinkmi on Feb 15, 2009 12:07:27 GMT -5
I will be applying the decal over the last coat of shellac. The Alcohol in the Shellac may cause the decal to wrinkle. The last coat is rubbed to a satin finish and once the decal is applied I will give it a coat of wax.
Mike
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 15, 2009 14:46:55 GMT -5
Most interesting Mike. I put the decal on my Standard on the wood before the shellac, as this was the way I found it before...ie. on the bare wood. I was thinking of putting one of two coats of shellac on the one D case I'm cleaning up for this other Standard D (I fortunately had a spare case body to replace the one smashed up).
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Post by klinkmi on Feb 15, 2009 21:42:38 GMT -5
The reason why I choose to do the decal this way is I had a problem in the past with putting decals under the last coat of finish. I had a Standard Banner decal bubble on me when I had put Shellac over it and eventually it peeled off.
Mike
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 15, 2009 23:14:49 GMT -5
Ahhh, gotcha  I went ahead and put two coats of shellac on the spare Standard D case I fixed up for my sister. I'm going to apply the decal, then just apply one more coat and rub it down with 0000 steel wool to give it a nice satin finish. |
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Post by martin1 on Feb 16, 2009 23:36:35 GMT -5
A very good way to apply decals that end up looking original, is to apply the decal after a couple coats of shellac. The real trick is to use decal setting solutions. (The kind you would find in hobby or model train stores.) This solution will soften the decal material and allow it to "settle-in" real close to the case's surface. After it dries, then use 2-3+ coats of shellac over the top. I just did that on restoring a standard Model E with very good results. The extra shellac helps to hide the edge of the decal.
Best Regards,
Martin
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Post by klinkmi on Mar 7, 2009 22:48:27 GMT -5
I did put the new decal on and put three coats of finish over it . It came out great. I realized the problem I had in the past was with the transfer itself. It was an older varnish transfer that had to be put on with Banana Liquid. I am questioning the age of the transfer or the sizing had not cured long enough which may have caused the bubbling.
Mike
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I went ahead and put two coats of shellac on the spare Standard D case I fixed up for my sister. I'm going to apply the decal, then just apply one more coat and rub it down with 0000 steel wool to give it a nice satin finish.