diggr
New Member
Posts: 16
|
Post by diggr on Feb 20, 2009 4:38:38 GMT -5
Well, I've started actively working on the project. Thus far I have the reproducer completely disassembled and cleaned up. Everything is down to bare metal. The finish appears to have been laquer as stripping took only dropping it into a container of laquer thinner and a bit of work with a small brass wire brush. I'll replace the diaphram and gaskets and refinish when I get to that point.
The carriage is now apart and seems in good shape overall needing only stripping and refinishing. The two thumb screws are not the same but I'll figure out something. Going to have to figure out how to get the old finish off though. Laquer thinner isn't working. Any suggestions for non-destructive finish removal?
The motor presents quite a puzzle to figure out how it went together all those years ago and therefor how to get it apart without breaking something. Is there any information "out there" such as a manual showing parts, orientation, assembly sequence, and the like? Any information would be appreciated.
And thanks Frank, you were right. This is kind of relaxing, assuming one likes solving 80 year old puzzles. ;D
|
|
|
Post by maroongem on Feb 20, 2009 8:06:54 GMT -5
Diggr,
The bedplate and other tops works had a finish that was baked on, akin to japanning. From the pix you supplied in a previous post, the finish didn't look all that bad and just needed a good cleaning. You could try the non abrasive Gojo hand cleaner to spiff it up. Before you begin to remove any of the gearing from the motor, make sure the mainspring is completely wound down! You can take detailed pix of the motor as you dissemble it and put screws, bearings,gears, etc. in numbered containers and make notes of where they came from. This is especially good if you are not going to do the cleaning all in one shot as a little time between can make you forget where "that extra screw" went. I have used this method for years in clock and watch repair, especially with complicated motion works or as I mentioned, not rebuilding immediately after.
Bill
|
|
|
Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 20, 2009 8:27:48 GMT -5
Told you it was fun I take tons of digital photos, and grab them off ebay for reference. Ziplock bags are always handy to have as well. I had some success cleaning up the original finish with Formula 409 and gentle use of 0000 steel wool. After cleaning I'm using basic Turtle Wax to polish up the bedplate and seal the metal (to an extent) from surface rusting.
|
|
diggr
New Member
Posts: 16
|
Post by diggr on Feb 21, 2009 14:43:48 GMT -5
Bill, Thanks for the info on the finish. The pic I posted doesn't reveal just how bad things are. Someone, probably my grand father, has been messing with it over the years. As a result I'm going to put it back to "like new" condition even if it is not absolutely accurate, purists be dammed. And yes a digital camera and notes are extremely important. I'm at the point where I'm not sure what I was doing at 9:00 AM yesterday. I don't go anywhere without my camera and a note pad. Everything is documented! A photo of the reproducer now.
|
|
|
Post by matty on Feb 22, 2009 0:24:06 GMT -5
I use a liquid rust converter containing about 30% phosphoric acid for things like thumb screws. You just soak the part for 5-10 minutes, & hit it with a tooth brush or fine steel wool under running water, and it will remove any rust, grime & tarnish but leave any original plating, lacquer or paint intact. You just have to lightly oil or wax the part once it's completely dry to prevent rust from forming on the surface again.
|
|
|
Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 22, 2009 10:00:49 GMT -5
Dang, this sounds more like more up my alley than a fine wire brush and WD-40, haha.
|
|
|
Post by matty on Feb 22, 2009 11:59:26 GMT -5
It very easy to use, and gives great results. After reading Diggr's post, I realized I hadn't done the thumb screws on my 30, so I took a before & after shot. These two weren't too bad to start with, but it does the same job on the worst of them. To give you a better idea, here's a badly rusted lid stay I've started doing. It eats away the rust, but not the metal.
|
|
diggr
New Member
Posts: 16
|
Post by diggr on Feb 22, 2009 14:47:58 GMT -5
Shane, A few of quick questions. As you can see in this photo the two thumb screws have different heads. Can you tell me which one is the "correct" one? The instrument probably dates to the mid '20s. Can you tell me/us the specific brand name of the rust remover you use? Is it available in the US? Diggr
|
|
|
Post by tarheeltinkerer on Feb 22, 2009 17:24:37 GMT -5
It very easy to use, and gives great results. After reading Diggr's post, I realized I hadn't done the thumb screws on my 30, so I took a before & after shot. These two weren't too bad to start with, but it does the same job on the worst of them. To give you a better idea, here's a badly rusted lid stay I've started doing. It eats away the rust, but not the metal. Wowsers! I gotta try that once I finish the current two I'm working on, haha.
|
|
|
Post by matty on Feb 22, 2009 19:43:06 GMT -5
Mine are the same as the one on the left with the thinner head. I'm not sure if they changed at sometime, but I kind of doubt it. I've used a few different brands of this sort of rust convert, but the one I've got at the moment is called "Revamp" rust treatment. I think Septone is another brand. Not sure if you'd get it there? I'd say you'd have a similar product though. We sell in at most hardware & car accessory stores. It should be either a clear or green tinted liquid, a little thicker than water. It's main application is for painting directly over rust & left to dry. I can't remember the exact wording that was on the Septone label, but it works by converting the oxidization on metal back into ions or something I haven't tried googling phosphoric acid, but no doubt there'd be heaps of info on the net about it.
|
|