Cleaning rusty from cygnet horn face Help needed

[Edison Restorer 64]

I am carious as to has anyone had to restore a cygnet horn face and what methods are used to get rid of the rust on the tin Heres what I am dealing with
These pics are the face in the restoration process

[tarheeltinkerer]

I'm not mentioning anything here as expert advice, but rather relaying things that have worked for me. Rust and paint is always a problem, and what I have found works best for me is with whatever I am doing, I remove the rust and paint as needed until I am absolutely sure all the rust is gone before repainting. If you don't, you run the risk of the rust coming back to the surface and causing havoc.

What I would do in this case is unless you have decals or details to save, use aircraft grade paint stripper to remove all the old paint. It's caustic stuff, but I promise will get things down to the tinned surface FAST. Once you have removed it all, wire brush away any and all rust. Next, lay down a rust converter primer coat. After this, you can shellac/enamel the surface and restripe it.

[matty]

I use phosphoric acid for all my rust removal. It's sold as rust converter out here, & is about 30% by volume. You can either paint it on the rust & leave it to dry, & it converts the oxides back into irons(?) or you can brush it on then wash it off & it leaves the metal rust free. If you paint it on & let it dry, it will only dry on the metal & not the paint, so you need to wash the excess off with a damp cloth.

This is what wikipedia says about phosphoric acid as a rust remover-

Phosphoric acid may be used by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces to convert iron(III) oxide (rust) to a water-soluble phosphate compound. It is usually available as a greenish liquid, suitable for dipping (acid bath). It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer." As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces. After treatment, the reddish-brown iron oxide will be converted to a black iron phosphate compound coating that may be scrubbed off. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid may be required to remove all rust. The resultant black compound can provide further corrosion resistance (such protection is somewhat provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating processes). After application and removal of rust using phosphoric acid compounds, the metal should be oiled (if to be used bare, as in a tool) or appropriately painted, by using a multiple coat process of primer, intermediate, and finish coats. Care must be taken to avoid acid burns of the skin and especially the eyes, but the residue is easily diluted with water. When sufficiently diluted, it can even be nutritious to plant life, containing the essential nutrients phosphorus and iron. It should not be directly introduced into surface water such as creeks or into drains, however.

[matty]

Here's a lock from a portable I did last night. This is after about 5 minutes. I may redo it??

[Edison Restorer 64]

Well a while back I purchased some Muriatic Acid at lowes in the gal plastic bottle and it worked out great strong ya have to use a mask and use it out in the open air also wear strong heavy duty rubber gloves . It does work if used stright and it smokes if useing it stright from the gal. bottle
but I had good results