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Post by lucius1958 on Mar 1, 2015 3:37:54 GMT -5
Some photos would be helpful.
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Feb 25, 2015 23:35:38 GMT -5
First off: does your model A have a 2/4 minute attachment? This was a common upgrade for Edison owners from 1908 on.
The model C reproducer was primarily designed for the 2 minute black wax cylinders, but 2 minute celluloid cylinders are also appropriate.
For brown wax cylinders, an earlier, lighter reproducer, such as an Automatic or model B, is considered best.
Neither the wax Amberol cylinders nor the Blue Amberols can be played on a 2 minute only machine: if you do have the 2/4 minute attachment, these should be played with a model H.
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Feb 25, 2015 23:23:58 GMT -5
If it is any help, I believe the Fireside used the same tensioner as the Standard.
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Feb 21, 2015 0:14:58 GMT -5
You can adjust the position of the mute ball by loosening the screws on its bracket. Adjust the position until the loud/soft contrast suits you.
Online record auctions, such as Nauck's or Hawthorn's, are a good way to find selections that appeal to you. Some of the late, electric DDs (52000 series) feature some very good jazz; but those tend to fetch higher prices.
For an oak machine, a brownish-gold, silk finish material would be appropriate: some time during the '20s, Edison went over to something with a diagonal check pattern. The turntable felt looks as if it might be original: in 1920, Edison standardized all machines with green felt - prior to that, some phonographs with golden oak cases used a light brown felt.
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Feb 20, 2015 23:42:21 GMT -5
The basic horn for Edisons of this period was a black and brass 'witches' hat', about 14" long, with a 7" bell. There were larger sizes available optionally, usually from the dealer: either black and brass, solid brass, or 'morning glory' horns from outside makers were a popular way to improve the appearance and sound quality of a phonograph. Edison did not provide 'morning glory' horns until about 1907, when they brought out a number of sizes, usually marked for the Home, Standard, etc. Some of the late model Standards were sometimes sold with flowered horns; others were fitted with back brackets for the later 'Cygnet' horns. Owners of older machines often upgraded them: for example, 2/4 minute attachments are occasionally found on 'suitcase' phonographs. With the larger horns, you would need a crane, of course. Up to a certain length, you could use a crane that clamped on the case: with much larger horns, you would have to use a floor crane, in order to keep the horn's weight from tipping the phonograph over. As for the size, owners could choose from a great variety, from 14" up to about 5': it all depended on how much space you had... BTW: if you need to check whether your horn is original, here's a quick visual comparison (original on left - reproduction on right): Original horns of this period will generally have a brass bead where the bell joins the cone; a smoother curve from the cone to the bell; a crimped (rather than soldered) small end. Sometimes they will have a stamp on the cone with patent information. I hope this has been helpful. BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Feb 18, 2015 2:12:14 GMT -5
That explains something: on the Standard B I got recently, I was puzzled by the presence of a fifth screw hole on the bedplate, with no corresponding hole in the wooden frame...
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Feb 13, 2015 23:57:32 GMT -5
After nearly a century, it is always a good idea to thoroughly inspect the motor, clean off the old grease and oil, and re-lubricate everything.
If you pay attention during the disassembly, and keep a record of what goes where, it will make reassembly much easier. If screws or other parts are reluctant to move, a penetrating oil such as "Liquid Wrench" or "Kroil" will loosen them.
For cleaning, I would recommend an old toothbrush: there is a product called "Krud Cutter", which is quite effective at dissolving old grease and oil. Alternatively, for small parts, you can use naphtha (lighter fluid).
Unless you find the mainsprings "thumping", it is not necessary to remove them for cleaning and re-greasing (indeed, from my experience, Diamond Disc springs are rather a tough job to work with). You can, however, add new grease through the hole in the spring barrels that is covered with a large screw. An automotive grease, such as lithium or molybdenum, is good.
Lastly, it is always good to replace the gaskets in the reproducer for the best sound, and make sure the weight moves freely. You might also invest in a high power jeweler's loupe to examine the stylus: if there is a flat spot, it is likely to damage the records. Fortunately, there is a new source for replacement styli, via the Bruce company...
I hope this information has been of some use.
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Feb 13, 2015 23:09:16 GMT -5
After a thorough cleaning and lubrication, plus a new belt, it now runs fine: at least 3 cylinders on one winding. The reproducer has good volume, but is rather distorted on loud passages: we'll see if new gaskets will improve the sound. BillS PS (2/14): Tried to post a link to a video, but I can't get it to work properly: I keep getting the wrong video... You can find the video on my Dailymotion channel: "Hearts and Flowers", by the Peerless Orchestra.
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Post by lucius1958 on Feb 11, 2015 2:50:54 GMT -5
I assume this is an original black & brass horn? Sorry, but there is no way to disassemble it without doing severe damage. You'll have to swallow the cost for the larger container.
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Feb 11, 2015 0:32:37 GMT -5
And a small sample of the cylinders: BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Feb 11, 2015 0:27:54 GMT -5
Sometimes, you have to go searching far and wide..... sometimes, the gods drop something in your lap. I drove up Tuesday to a therapist's appointment. I had barely sat down when he said, "I've got something for you." From out of the closet he lugged a cardboard box: I could see some cylinder boxes, a dusty lid, and the tarnished bell end of a horn. In short, it turned out to be a Standard B, with an ICS plaque. There were also the original black & brass horn, 15 wax cylinders, and a bunch of ICS lesson books. When I finally got this precious cargo home, dusted it off, and removed the lid, there was a nearly pristine mechanism: bright nickel, almost perfect striping, and a Model C reproducer with no discernible wear on the stylus. Also there were the external speed control and repeater which marked it as an ICS machine. The case was in fine condition under the dust, with a beautiful banner decal and celluloid plaque. SN was 281792. Despite having sat wound up for the better part of a century, the motor purred to life when I released the brake, and ran for a good number of minutes (albeit without the belt) before it ran down. The cylinders were nearly all in V+/E condition: 5 were ICS language lessons, and the rest were musical selections. Here are some photos of the find: BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Feb 10, 2015 4:00:30 GMT -5
Have you done anything other than add oil?
It is always a good idea, when you buy an antique phonograph of any kind, to disassemble the motor and clean it, *then* relubricate it before playing.
You should also check the oiling tubes to make sure they are clear: after nearly a century, the old oil may have solidified, preventing any new oil from reaching its destination.
Also, it would be helpful if you could describe the sort of noise you are hearing: if it recurs in a particular rhythm, that would help in diagnosing its source. Usually, the most likely source of noise in a spring motor is the governor, as that is the fastest spinning part.
Generally, the best remedy is to go over every part of the motor thoroughly, then start tweaking the small adjustments.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Before you disassemble the motor, make sure that the mainsprings are COMPLETELY WOUND DOWN: otherwise, you may run the risk of personal injury and damage to the motor.
I hope this advice has been of some help.
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Post by lucius1958 on Feb 3, 2015 0:42:43 GMT -5
Hi:
There are a number of different factors that might cause the problem: governor adjustment; belt tension; end bearing adjustment (if the phonograph has an endgate); slight stiffness or play in the mandrel bearing (if it has no endgate); wear in the gears, etc. Even with a powerful motor like the Triumph, it doesn't take much to slow it down.
Basically, one has to keep fiddling with the little details to get the motor in the 'sweet spot'.....
Hope this has been of some help.
BillS
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B19
Jan 29, 2015 4:38:33 GMT -5
Post by lucius1958 on Jan 29, 2015 4:38:33 GMT -5
Hi:
The 'Baldwin' decal was most certainly applied by the dealer who sold the phonograph originally: it was a fairly common practice in that period.
As for value, that is rather subjective: you might check sites like eBay for completed sales of B-19s (keeping in mind that much of the price depends upon condition). The records are rather harder to appraise, without knowing their titles and conditions.
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Jan 28, 2015 5:26:21 GMT -5
"Bluegrass" as a musical genre had not really come into being during this period. Edison did issue recordings of 'old time' fiddle music (most notably John Baltzell), and the sort of folksy ballads popularized by Vernon Dalhart and Ernest Stoneman among others; but the 'country' genre was not prominently featured on the Diamond Discs. In fact, some titles may never have been issued on DD, but were issued on the late Blue Amberol cylinders.
BillS
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