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Post by phonogfp on Mar 26, 2013 21:21:46 GMT -5
John,
Yes, it IS big whoop. Even after you've been collecting for decades and you've become a jaded old fossil who only becomes excited when you discover a phonograph of which less than a dozen examples exist... you'll still remember the thrill of bringing that first one back to life. ;D
Enjoy!
George P.
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Post by joernone on Mar 27, 2013 14:07:47 GMT -5
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Post by maroongem on Mar 27, 2013 14:18:43 GMT -5
John,
You can clean the condensite surface of the record with isopropyl alcohol. Don't use water as these discs had either a clay or wood flour core depending on mfg. date and will swell up from the water if there is any compromise in the condensite coating. I noticed it slowed down shortly after you started the disc. There may be something else going on. BTW, give me the stamped number on the tan colored under-label and I'll give you the info of artist and title.
BillF
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Post by joernone on Mar 27, 2013 15:13:16 GMT -5
Bill, I've already cleaned all the record surfaces with a soft paint brush and alcohol, and they're all in good shape for the shape they're in. But no sweat on the record slowdown. I was just doing a quick checkout and had only wound the mechanism a few times. John
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Post by joernone on Mar 27, 2013 18:32:20 GMT -5
Next questions:
1. What type and weight of oil is best to lubricate the phonograph's gears and cables?
2. How much oil does one put in the topside well? I assume you don't fill it to the top.
3. Is grease, as opposed to oil, used on any part of the mechanism? If so, again what type and weight is best?
Regards, John
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Post by lucius1958 on Mar 28, 2013 0:15:18 GMT -5
I believe Singer Sewing Machine Oil is highly regarded for general lubrication; a fairly small amount is sufficient, and you can add a little more every few months or so...
Except for the mainsprings themselves, the only places I'd put grease are perhaps the winding gears, the spiral gear on the spindle, and maybe the spiral gear on the governor. Vaseline will work fine there.
BillS
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Post by joernone on Mar 30, 2013 20:47:29 GMT -5
John, BTW, give me the stamped number on the tan colored under-label and I'll give you the info of artist and title. BillF Bill, Thank you for the kind offer. I found a few disc labels in the bowels of the unit. Some are unreadable in that the printing has been obliterated. The rest I can make out, but their numbers don't match any of the discs I have. Anyway, here's the numbers on the under-labels: 80300L; 80300R 51233L; 51233R 51406L; 51406R 51228R I'll very much appreciate anything you can do. Incidentally, is there an online index? Seems there would be one available. John
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Post by lucius1958 on Mar 31, 2013 1:17:43 GMT -5
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Post by maroongem on Mar 31, 2013 5:59:03 GMT -5
John,
Here is the info on the discs you supplied.
80300-R "I LOVE TO TELL THE STORY,"The Metropolitan Quartet 80300-L "I WILL SING OF MY REDEEMER," The Metropolitan Quartet released 1916. 51233-R "CANNIBELA" The Broadway Dance Orchestra 51233-L "NO, NO, NORA" The Broadway Dance Orchestra rel. late '23 or early '24. 51406-R "BLUE EVENING BLUES" Fry's Million Dollar Pier Orchestra 51406-L "COPENHAGEN" Fry's Million Dollar Pier Orchestra rel. late '24 or early '25. 51228-R "YOU WANTED SOMEONE TO PLAY WITH" Montauk Trio rel. late '23.
BillF
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Post by joernone on Mar 31, 2013 22:35:59 GMT -5
John, Here is the info on the discs you supplied. Thank you very much, my friend. Good job...and it's greatly appreciated. I'm still sprucing up the cabinet. Today I worked the lid over with some paste wood filler. It's slow going, but there's no rush. It'll get done when it gets done. Regards, John
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Post by joernone on Apr 3, 2013 10:38:58 GMT -5
New question: Some of my DDs are flaking along the edges. Is there a tried and true method of at least somewhat preventing it and/or holding things in place...like maybe applying a few licks of clear nail polish where needed?
John
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Post by maroongem on Apr 4, 2013 3:37:36 GMT -5
John,
As you may have surmised, moisture got under the condensite coating and caused the wood or clay core (depending on mfg. date) to swell. As long as the area is now dry, clear nail polish or even shellac would be ok to seal it. It may still flake over time though.
BillF
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Post by marcapra on May 12, 2013 0:32:27 GMT -5
I have a C-250 also and you don't really need a dolphin key for it. I use a standard E key, which stands for Edison of course, which are cheaper than the dolphin keys. they also make repro E keys.
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