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Post by Edison Restorer 64 on Mar 11, 2009 19:52:08 GMT -5
Ok Guys I do need help on this one Before I start I want to ask here first. Ill show you the pic or you may have seen my new toy pics well ill tell ya the shaft as usual on these is frozen it is what I beleived swollen pot metal is what maked the mandrell shaft freeze up on these or is it>?? what to use that does not smell to bad to get it un stuck so i can start to refurbish this bueaty. It Looks this good this is how it arrived at my door it was packed extremely good THanks I do Appreciate any and All help On this Prehenccely
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brad
New Member
So many phonographs, so little money.....
Posts: 5
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Post by brad on Mar 15, 2009 20:22:52 GMT -5
In the past someone on eBay was selling a small diameter core drill bit that he claimed could be used for this purpose, but they were expensive.
I used a drill and a small bit and worked at the bushing until it broke apart and I would extract the mandrel and remove the rest. I was not able to keep the drill bit away from the mandrel shaft and caused some damage to the shaft. I spent a few hours with progressively finer grits of emery cloth and was able to get an good surface back.
Good luck
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Post by matty on Mar 15, 2009 21:59:44 GMT -5
Does the freezer trick work on the bearing as it does on a pot metal reproducer?
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Post by dddave on Mar 16, 2009 13:15:33 GMT -5
Remove the bedplate from the case, remove the carriage and anything else that will fly loose. Loosen the pulleys from the mandrel shaft. Put a liberal dose of liquid wrench on the swollen bearing, let sit for several hours. Start tapping the end of the mandrel shaft on the left side using a 3/16” aluminum rod. With enough careful tapping and patience, you may be able to drive the shaft out of the bearing. Once the shaft is out, chip out the swollen bearing. Don’t use anything harder than an aluminum rod to tap on the end of the shaft, otherwise, you’ll deform the end. You can also try twisting the whole thing by grasping the mandrel in your hand, but you’ll probably just end up with a loose mandrel. You can also try putting the whole bedplate in a freezer for several hours and then try taping the shaft out. I used both of these approaches to remove a badly stuck mandrel shaft last week. Dave
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Post by Edison Restorer 64 on Mar 18, 2009 19:17:16 GMT -5
Thanks for the suggestion although I would try this myself I have done it before and destroyed a manderll a really good one and destroyed a good bed plate there for Ill not attempt it alone.
I am Driveing up to a friends house and he says he would be able to help me Thanks so much I so decided to let my friend help so sorry for any troubles
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Post by MicaWyattMonster on Mar 23, 2009 21:50:28 GMT -5
Key is to NOT force the mandrel, as you may bend the mandrel shaft.
I have done at least 100+ of these, and EXPERIENCE pays, in this case.
Depending on the situation, sometimes the mandrel can be removed from its shaft (it is lightly soldered on), then you can use vice grips to twist the shaft out of its bearing. When the mandrel is re-installed, you will be covering up any "grip marks". To get the bearing out of the cast iron boss, you will need to grind a hack saw blade short, so it will fit through the hole. Patiently cut a slot in the bearing, then pop it out with a hammer and a drift.
REMEMBER: FORCING THINGS CAN BREAK THEM
If you feel as if you can not do the job, feel free to contact me for further advice.
Wyatt
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Post by Edison Restorer 64 on Mar 26, 2009 6:56:13 GMT -5
Thanks if i need help ill ask i have a friend helping me with this I Thanks for the offer sincerely Will S in Mass
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Post by Edison Restorer 64 on Mar 31, 2009 8:58:24 GMT -5
A Very Big Thank ;DYou to maroongem for all the help in removing this nasty stubborn old Pot metal bearing. With Out him i could not have done this ,and Thank You to all my friends here ,The On line Edison Phonograph Discussion Board
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Post by maroongem on Mar 31, 2009 18:37:19 GMT -5
A Very Big Thank ;DYou to maroongem for all the help in removing this nasty stubborn old Pot metal bearing. With Out him i could not have done this ,and Thank You to all my friends here ,The On line Edison Phonograph Discussion Board Bill, You're quite welcome and I am happy that I was able to help. I do have to say that it was the meanest one I've ever done!! Bill
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Dean
New Member
Posts: 23
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Post by Dean on Apr 30, 2009 12:25:34 GMT -5
I would like to add to the thank you's. Bill also assisted me ( by phone) with my Mandrel removal. Thank you Bill. I appreciate you taking the time to help out a rookie. Dean
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Post by maroongem on Apr 30, 2009 17:37:44 GMT -5
Dean, Happy to have helped! Hope it's humming along nicely!
Bill
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Post by unclevanya on May 6, 2009 17:30:57 GMT -5
Key is to NOT force the mandrel, as you may bend the mandrel shaft. I have done at least 100+ of these, and EXPERIENCE pays, in this case. Depending on the situation, sometimes the mandrel can be removed from its shaft (it is lightly soldered on), then you can use vice grips to twist the shaft out of its bearing. When the mandrel is re-installed, you will be covering up any "grip marks". To get the bearing out of the cast iron boss, you will need to grind a hack saw blade short, so it will fit through the hole. Patiently cut a slot in the bearing, then pop it out with a hammer and a drift. REMEMBER: FORCING THINGS CAN BREAK THEM If you feel as if you can not do the job, feel free to contact me for further advice. Wyatt Why do things the hard way? Get a hypodermic, sans needle, at a store that sells vertenanary supplies. Fill it wit cheap Muriatic acid, remove the oiler screw which holds the pot-metal bearing in place, and put a coupe drops of acid down the oil hole. Let the machine sit overnight and repeate in the morning. The acid will dissolve the principal components of pot-metal (AL and ZN), but will not attack steel, although it will dissolve rust. After this treatment enough of the bearing will be eaten away so that the most recalcitrant mandrel may easily be removed. I have been using this technique for more than thirty years, on many hundreds of machines.
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Post by dddave on May 9, 2009 6:40:51 GMT -5
Thanks for the great tip. It's amazing what old "secrets" are floating around. I wish I had known this 3 months ago when I was struggling with mine. Dave
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Post by phonojim on May 29, 2009 21:33:33 GMT -5
I wish I had known about the muriatic acid a few months ago. I had to remove a frozen bushing on a model D Standard. I used a gear puller which I had adapted to push the mandrel shaft through the bushing. I made an adapter so I could pull against the bushing post in the casting while pushing against the left end of the shaft. Worked like a champ! I was still wondering how I could do that with a Home or a Triumph; how to keep the shaft straight while driving it out and not do any damage to the feedscrew in the process. The acid will take care of all of those problems and, since we have a pool there is always a jug of Muriatic acid around. I second Dave in thanking you for the tip.
Jim
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Post by bostonmike1 on May 30, 2009 15:28:04 GMT -5
I wish I had known about the muriatic acid a few months ago. I had to remove a frozen bushing on a model D Standard. I used a gear puller which I had adapted to push the mandrel shaft through the bushing. I made an adapter so I could pull against the bushing post in the casting while pushing against the left end of the shaft. Worked like a champ! I was still wondering how I could do that with a Home or a Triumph; how to keep the shaft straight while driving it out and not do any damage to the feedscrew in the process. The acid will take care of all of those problems and, since we have a pool there is always a jug of Muriatic acid around. I second Dave in thanking you for the tip. Jim I own a Home Model A and B--------what bushing are you referring to? Michael
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