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Post by jsandecker on May 17, 2009 18:16:19 GMT -5
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Post by larryh on May 17, 2009 21:40:17 GMT -5
Welcome, Gee what a project. I thought the beat up C 19 I spent most of last summer on had issues, but your going to top mine if you attempt to restore the finish eventually. As to the oil, its not anything fancy. A good bearing grease like comes in a can is fine for the gears and a good quality sewing machine or 3 in l kind of oil should be fine for the oil ports. Below is a link for the Repair Manual for the Motor and adjustments, a great thing to print out. www.lagparty.org/~wyatt/ddmanual.htmlI know you will enjoy it. One thing to watch for is to test that the needle is not damaged so as to ruin any records you may have or get. If you lower the needle on a clean run off at the rear of the sound grooves, (one that doesn't already show lines all in the surface), then watch after you let it made a dozen or so turns and see if its still unaffected. If it should leave obvious lines in the run off that weren't there before, you most likely have a needle in need of replacement soon. You will want to consider getting new gaskets for the reproducer as well since if it has the original ones no doubt they need to be replace for optimum sound. There are a number of sources for those also on the net. Otherwise, if you have it going already, enjoy. Larry |
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Post by maroongem on May 18, 2009 16:34:19 GMT -5
Hi Jsandecker,
LOL! You wouldn't be a Dirk Pitt fan would you? Anyway, your C-19 is a late one, I'd guess 1926 or later because of the 10-12 switch. These were for his Long Play set-up and from what I've seen over the years were found on the popular sellers whether they had the extra spring barrel and Long Play gears or not. I also notice that you have the oxidized finish and orangish felt on the turntable which seems to have been used on the late C-19s (and others that were still in production by this time) from what I have been able to personally observe.
You have a great possibility there and with patience it will be a very nice machine!!!
Bill
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Post by MordEth on May 18, 2009 19:04:51 GMT -5
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Post by jsandecker on May 18, 2009 22:20:31 GMT -5
Thank you for the responses. I'll take all the info I can get.
Larryh... I have found that manual already and it has been helpful. I checked the stylus using the method you suggested and it checked out OK. PHEW! As you know there's a recession going on and working for an auto supplier times are tight. I plan on replacing the reproducer gaskets once I finish refinishing the cabinet.
Maroongem..LOL I've been reading Clive Cussler since 1980. Long time fan. Thanks for the input. I know that the C19 went into production in 1919 but does anyone know what the last year of manufacture was? Was that color most likely the original felt color? Also what color were the screws for securing the trim? I'm thinking of replacing them with brass screws.
MordEth I plan on getting that PDF it will be easier than using the JPG images. Thank you! I started removing the paint today using a heat gun. It works fairly decent but the shellac underneath comes along for the ride and tends to make things a bit on the sticky side. I'll have to browse that article through.
This project will be a nice change of pace from working on robots that's for sure. I just need to take my time and get it right. My wife already had a spot picked out in the house for it. She wants me to get it to match her rosewood furniture.
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Post by matty on May 19, 2009 4:13:53 GMT -5
The only thing I'd like to add is to be careful stripping the paint on the decorative frieze around the top of the cabinet. The zig-zag (?) fretwork is 2 ply veneer which is applied to the backing timber, and can separate & fall off in pieces if you're not careful. If I had to strip that particular cabinet, I'd use a gel paint stripper on that area. I'd apply it, and then using a soft tooth brush, loosen the paint as the stripper starts to work. I'd also avoid washing that area down with water to remove the stripper, but would "use" alcohol as this will remove the stripper just as well, but without softening the old glue like water will. I've never used a heat gun for paint removal, but I'd avoid using on that decorative area as heat will soften the glue as well. Sorry mate, I left a word out  |
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Post by jsandecker on May 19, 2009 13:16:03 GMT -5
Gramophoneshane thank you for your response. Considering I'm going to start on the cabinet this afternoon your reply came at a good time. I will use caution around the trim pieces. Unforunately some are missing so that should be fun coming up with replacements. I have to go into town in a bit so I'll stop by and get some of the gel stripper.
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Post by maroongem on May 19, 2009 16:12:01 GMT -5
Maroongem..LOL I've been reading Clive Cussler since 1980. Long time fan. Thanks for the input. I know that the C19 went into production in 1919 but does anyone know what the last year of manufacture was? Was that color most likely the original felt color? Also what color were the screws for securing the trim? I'm thinking of replacing them with brass screws. I too am a long time Cussler fan, just finished "Black Wind." All of the older machines still in production prior to the new Edisonics in '27 seemed to have ceased production by August of that year. according to Frow. Rest assured that you have the remains of the original felt on the turn table. Are you referring to the screws that hold the number strips in the record cabinet? If so, they would have been an oxidized steel screw. How may do you need? I recently parted out a BC-34 that had the oxidized metal parts and orange TT like your machine. BTW, I notice you have the original Edison "E" key. Nice little hard to find accessory!! Bill |
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Post by larryh on May 19, 2009 16:15:07 GMT -5
Js.
I am guessing your aware that Denatured Alcohol will wash the shellack off the cabinet using some medium grade steel wool and repeated washings.
Larry
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Post by jsandecker on May 31, 2009 21:16:15 GMT -5
I thought I'd show that I'm actually making some progress on the C19. I still have a long way to go but I'm getting there.  |
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Post by matty on Jun 1, 2009 1:41:43 GMT -5
Wow, it looks 100% better already. Are you going to refinish it in shellac?
I'm not sure about the mahogany C19's, but I had to refinish a mahogany A100, and the legs were actually beech or something, so I had to stain them to match the mahogany veneers.
Does anyone know if the same will apply to these cabinets?
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Post by tarheeltinkerer on Jun 1, 2009 7:54:54 GMT -5
Awesome work!
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Post by larryh on Jun 1, 2009 8:45:39 GMT -5
Boy its looking fine at the moment. I think from my experience that all the parts of wood on mine are the same material so staining shouldn't be an issue. Shellac, while what I choose is a very difficult thing to perfect without lots of tries at it and many failures. Mine didn't come out as perfect as I would have liked but is way better than it was.
I wonder how that brushing lacquer would work on it. I found it on the later edison console to work so great when I had been afraid to use it. It blends together and doesn't run as easily as most things. Several coats of a semi gloss make a pretty nice finish and its what they used after the shellac era ended. Either way its quite an improvement.
Larry
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Post by jsandecker on Jun 2, 2009 21:42:48 GMT -5
I've noticed that the trim pieces seem to have a different color and grain from the verneer. Hopefully it will turn out ok.
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Post by maroongem on Jun 3, 2009 3:29:10 GMT -5
Super stripping job! You may want to look into using Min-Wax Tung oil in lieu of shellac. It's a lot more user friendly and gives a very nice finish.
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