|
Post by gibsonj on Jun 22, 2010 10:41:59 GMT -5
Hi I can offer a couple of suggestions. Check out this link for a general description of various cabinet keys and application: www.oldcrank.com/articles/keys/keys.htmlHere is a source for reproduction keys: www.victroladoctor.com/accessories.htmI have found some variation in keys used for Diamond Disc machines (model dependent). For example, the "dolphin" key is commonly used. However, there are variations in the "dolphin" key, including length, number of cuts in the blade, etc. One of my earlier DD machines uses a single cut blade "dolphin" key, while a later DD machine uses a double cut blade "dolphin" key. So, the point is just be aware when you're searching for keys on EBAY or a parts source, you might acquire a key that doesn't work your particular lock. Hope this helps you get started, and welcome to the forum! John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Apr 29, 2010 8:12:11 GMT -5
Bill
Yes, gold finish would be preferable. I also have a C-250 that has the antique bronze finish on the hardware, but I've never seen adapters in that finish.
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Apr 27, 2010 12:02:51 GMT -5
Thanks, guys. This is good stuff. I happened on an adapter recently that is all nickel-plated brass, and has two joints that allow for both vertical and horizontal movement. It was fitted with a Columbia reproducer, that appeared similar to the early Graphonola soundbox. I'd never seen one quite like it, but wondered about why the extra engineering/flexibility was there. Of course, there was no instruction sheet with it. Wish I had tried to buy it now.
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Apr 26, 2010 12:54:55 GMT -5
I know that a number of "aftermarket" companies offered adapters allowing lateral cut records to be played on DDs. Since the lateral cut record grooves "pulled" the reproducer along, what is the effect of the DD mechanical reproducer movement to sound quality? Were you supposed to not engage the mechanical reproducer movement when playing lateral cut records? Was there a right or wrong way to position the needle for lateral cut record playing? It seems that most adapters I've seen were manufactured with a pre-determined angle for the needle. But, occasionally, I see an adapter that has an adjustment for the swing of the reproducer head, and I wonder what that adjustment was for.
Has anyone had better sound quality experience with any particular manufacturer adapter and/or reproducer? I've been told that Victor Exhibitions are good.
Generally, is the use of DDs for lateral cut record playing a good or bad idea? I know Edison himself didn't promote it, but his was probably a competition conflict, although I know he also strongly felt "hill and dale" superior to lateral cut for sound quality.
Thanks for your perspectives and comments!
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Mar 17, 2010 8:33:47 GMT -5
Hi
Yes, the "H" reproducer is correct for the 4-min Amberols. It was superceded in 1911 by the model "N" reproducer, or Edison also offered combination reproducers "O" and "R" that were stylus switchable to play either 2-min or 4-min cylinders. These reproducers were the follow-on to the model "K" combination that you mentioned. The model "C" is the most common 2-min only reproducer.
As far as cylinder damage, of course, the geometry of the 2-min vs. 4-min recording is different, so the physical size of the stylus point fitting the grooves is different. So, my thought would be that the larger 2-min stylus attempting to fit the groove of a 4-min cylinder would not sound well and would cause some unnecessary wear. On the other hand, the sapphire stylus used in the 4-min reproducers being smaller than a 2-min groove might experience tracking problems, as well as introduce some unnecessary wear, given the sapphire stylus being designed for the harder black wax Amberols.
I might be all confused here, but the experts can correct me. Hope this helps.
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Mar 16, 2010 13:52:36 GMT -5
Steve Here's one suggestion. Not a complete pictorial history, but some good examples: nipperhead.com/old/index.htmlClick on the phono gallery icon when you get to the page above. Hope this helps. John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Mar 11, 2010 9:26:43 GMT -5
Per Frow, the Amberola V is a tabletop model, while the Amberola IV was floor standing. The Amberola IV used a Home Model F motor with a Standard Model G top works. But, the lower belt pulley was larger than the normal Home motor. On the other hand, the Amberola V used a motor similar to the Home Model B, except it had a large flywheel on the mandrel shaft.
Frow also mentions that at some time during 1914 (perhaps before the fire), the Amberola V shipped with a pressed steel grill.
Hope this helps.
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Mar 9, 2010 14:10:56 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Mar 2, 2010 13:20:21 GMT -5
Bjorn
You mention good success with using heat to separate cabinet joints. I need to remove the top panel on an Edison upright cabinet that has developed a split. I'm thinking the only way I can re-glue and clamp it satisfactorily is to remove the panel first. But, I'm concerned since its likely glued down that I might damage it more trying to remove it.
When you apply heat, do you use a heat gun? What is your technique?
Thanks and I totally understand managing the wife's reactions. Mine just does not appreciate the investment nearly like I do!
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Feb 23, 2010 12:41:18 GMT -5
timland
Thanks for the advice. I'd love not to have to remove the top, but the split is starting in about the center of the panel at the back, and is about 4-5 inches long. While I could get glue in there with a syringe, I'm thinking when I clamp it with some pressure, it's likely to not want to close up without putting too much strain on where its currently glued to the cove side of the hood.
If the original glue was hide glue, wonder if steam would loosen it. But, then, I guess there would be some risk to loosening any veneer as well.
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Feb 16, 2010 16:58:08 GMT -5
Hi,
What you have there is a model H-19 Hepplewhite with what appears to be the "fleurs-de-lis" grille, making it one of the early machines manufactured around 1919. The "fleurs-de-lis" cabinets are a bit more uncommon, but the H-19 is a fairly common diamond disk upright.
I don't currently have a H-19 in my collection, but Baltimore is a bit far for me. Good luck finding it a home!
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Feb 16, 2010 9:47:56 GMT -5
Hey Folks
This week-end, I noticed that the top panel of a C-250 I've just picked up has a split just starting. Probably happened from the move, or change in humidity between locations.
Anyway, I'm assuming that the top panel is glued down. Is that right? I'm thinking I'll have to remove the panel to attempt a repair. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to go about getting it off?
Thanks for your knowledge!
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Feb 16, 2010 9:34:07 GMT -5
Bruce
Thanks for that description. I'll need to be looking at my A-200 as I read your instructions. Guess I'm more a visual person.
I'm not planning any moves--just am beginning the process of cleaning this one up, and wanted the works out of the cabinet. Because of the tilt capability, I suspected there was a preferred method of removal.
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Feb 5, 2010 15:15:06 GMT -5
Hi folks
I understand the early A-series DD machines were designed to allow the bedplate to tilt up. Can anyone enlighten me on what needs to be disconnected/unattached first?
I'm assuming the design was to allow for easier servicing/maintenance, but it sure seems from looking at my A-200 that some things (like the horn linkages, for example) would need to be unattached.
Just curious about the process if anyone has ideas. Thanks as always!
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Dec 3, 2009 10:06:16 GMT -5
Thanks, Martin. That's what I feared might be the case. I would very much like to see what you've found re. Standards. I have one Standard in my collection that I can add to your list. I'll send the info on mine to you in a day or two.
Looking forward to seeing your spreadsheet. Thanks!
John
|
|