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Post by gibsonj on Nov 8, 2010 10:17:33 GMT -5
I may experiment with this, and I'll let you all know. Don't know much about spraying shellac, but from what I've read and from other's experiences, there were two common things to report:
(1) with this low end sprayer, good results were obtained using a 1.8mm needle and no thinning of Zinsser Amber Shellac pre-mixed. Of course, you'd have to experiment when using flakes and mixing your own.
(2) the air coming out of the turbine on this self-contained unit is very warm, so it tended to "pre-heat" the shellac a bit, resulting in more even delivery.
I've always thought that spraying is an "art form". But, seems like this would be a serious time saver if you could master it.
John
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Post by gibsonj on Nov 5, 2010 8:18:30 GMT -5
Hey folks Have any of you ever tried spraying shellac? I've read some very positive experiences from woodworking forums. Folks say with a little practice (necessary with any spraying), very nice shellac finishes are possible using inexpensive HVLP equipment (for example, www.harborfreight.com/high-volume-low-pressure-spray-gun-kit-44677.htmlHave any of you ever tried this on your phonograph projects? Thanks. John
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Post by gibsonj on Sept 22, 2010 8:34:07 GMT -5
Nefaurora
I've won a couple of adapters on Ebay at prices not too bad--around $75-80 including soundboxes. They show up there fairly frequently. Try to look for one that has little or no pot metal--it doesn't age well, will crumble, crack, and break easily. Nickel plated adapters seem to show up more often than gold plated.
Another option is to look for antique phonograph shows in your area, where there are always lots of parts for sale. Of course, the big shows happen every year in Wayne, NJ; Orlando, FL; and Union, IL.
Good luck!
John
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Post by gibsonj on Aug 25, 2010 7:39:42 GMT -5
Bill
OK, that makes sense. I'll give it a try. Thanks.
John
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Post by gibsonj on Aug 25, 2010 7:37:27 GMT -5
Hey Bill
I'll look at it closely again tonight. Thanks for the insight.
John
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Post by gibsonj on Aug 24, 2010 16:29:21 GMT -5
Bill
Yes, very. Looking at my machine carefully, I am able to shift the feedscrew shaft left and right, and the smaller pulley as shown in your Mod. E picture is present, but does not mesh correctly (haven't taken it apart yet to investigate). So, I'm pretty convinced that I have a Mod. B machine without the gear changing switch present, or a Mod. B machine with the combination shaft common to Mod. D or E.
The Frow book mentions there were several variations of the combination attachment upgrades. Since my machine has the horizontal carriage, a Cygnet horn bracket installed, and the Mod O reproducer, I'm thinking this was a "field upgrade" to get the machine to 4-minute capability. I'm just wondering if the switch is indeed missing, or this was a "make it work" using available parts.
Thanks for all your help.
John
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Post by gibsonj on Aug 24, 2010 15:47:15 GMT -5
Bill
What is the proper way to set the "end play" between the swing arm and the mandrel tip? Do you just go by what feels right, or is there a more scientific way, like a feeler gauge?
Thanks
John
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Post by gibsonj on Aug 24, 2010 10:42:53 GMT -5
Frank Here's a link to folks who have produced wax blanks: members.tripod.com/~Edison_1/index.htmlI notice today on this site, however, that they may be quitting the business due to low demand. I've never bought anything from them myself, so can't give you much experience. Hope this helps. John
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Post by gibsonj on Aug 18, 2010 7:40:55 GMT -5
Hey Bill
Thanks. Some pix would be great for reference if not too much trouble for you. Hope all is well.
John
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Post by gibsonj on Aug 17, 2010 7:46:33 GMT -5
Hey folks
This past weekend, I picked up a Home Model B project machine. This is my first Home, so I'm still orienting myself to the design. It was advertised as a combination machine, but here's where I have questions.
It does have a Model O reproducer and horizontal carriage, with a Cygnet horn bracket attached to the rear. Looking at the left side of the upper belt pulley, I can see a planetary gear. But, there is no switch mechanism, nor any evidence there ever was. Checking the Frow book, there is mention there of Model B conversions not having a switch, but I'm not sure. I guess I fundamentally don't understand how the 2/4 mechanics were designed to work.
Can any of you straighten me out on this? Do I have a "partially" converted machine or am I just missing something?
Thanks.
John
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Post by gibsonj on Aug 17, 2010 7:37:54 GMT -5
Paul
Numerous sources. You can certainly get belting material from Wyatts (http://www.wyattsmusical.com/decal.pdf) or APSCO (http://www.antiquephono.com/edmotor.htm). Just two that are well known. Hope this helps.
John
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Post by gibsonj on Jul 8, 2010 8:03:01 GMT -5
Doug One more link: www.edisondiamonddisc.com/Then, click to enter the Edison Diamond Disk site. Then, click on Edison On-line Repair Manual. Good luck! John
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Post by gibsonj on Jul 8, 2010 7:56:13 GMT -5
blackwalnut1234 Here's a link to an owners/operations manual for DDs that may get you started: nipperhead.com/old/ddisc.htmHope this helps. John
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Post by gibsonj on Jun 24, 2010 9:11:00 GMT -5
I stand corrected. Thanks.
John
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Post by gibsonj on Jun 23, 2010 10:30:35 GMT -5
Joe645
You will also need a reproducer change to a 4-minute type, like the Model H for example. The physical record groove for the 2-minute is wider than the 4-minute, so record damage can result using a 2-minute reproducer with a 4-minute record, as well as the obvious performance issues.
John
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