|
Post by gibsonj on Aug 26, 2016 8:21:38 GMT -5
Hey johnboy
It sounds like the diaphragm may be slightly not as tight in the reproducer body as it needs to be. I'd try a slight tightening of the retainer ring holding the diaphragm in place in the body, and see what effect that has. Take care not to overtighten. The diaphragm still needs to be able to vibrate freely.
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Aug 8, 2016 13:39:50 GMT -5
Hey Silverface I would try Kurt Nauck here: www.78rpm.comHe usually has Edison tubes available. John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Feb 27, 2015 10:06:35 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Feb 20, 2015 8:54:07 GMT -5
Hey Ed
You have a nice looking Heppelwhite. Generally, I would say that oak cabinets are a bit more scarce than mahogany--I certainly see more of the darker finishes myself.
You've basically figured out the volume control. The felt damper ball just moves in and out of the horn opening to reduce the sound. The old saying "put a sock in it" applies here.
You may have already discovered these reference documents, but I have photocopies of an original owners manual covering the Heppelwhite model, as well as the motor repair manual. These should be good references for lubricating and adjusting your machine. They are too large to attach, but if you're interested and will send me a PM with your email address, I can send them to you.
Enjoy your machine!
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Nov 14, 2014 9:21:53 GMT -5
Contact Michael at mike@monarchrecs.com. It's $15.95 softcopy.
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Nov 5, 2014 10:43:46 GMT -5
I'm sending along some information in an email. Let me know if you don't receive.
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Nov 3, 2014 9:54:06 GMT -5
Hello
Welcome to the Edison forum, and hope you enjoy your diamond disc. A couple of suggestions:
(1) the sluggishness of the machine is likely due to the works being gummed up with old grease and dust over the past years. A good cleaning and re-lubrication is almost always required. Mainsprings, in particular, can gum up with old grease. Sometimes, it's possible to add some new grease to the spring barrel ( it has a screw cap on the side to provide access), then wind it up to distribute the new grease with the old, let it run all the way down, then repeat. If this doesn't work to your satisfaction, then I'm afraid the spring barrel will need to be disassembled, the old grease removed, and new lubricant applied. This is not a job for a novice, as the mainsprings are extremely strong, and can cause injury if you're not extremely careful.
(2) apart from the mainspring, each of the bearing pivot points, particularly the governor pivots, need lubricating. Your machine should have oil tubes with caps beneath the turntable platter, that extend to the critical points. A few drops of light weight oil (like sewing machine oil) work well.
(3) your Edison is designed to ONLY play Edison diamond disc records. Playing 78s or other manufacturer acoustics will certainly destroy the records and potentially damage the diamond stylus.
(4) check your diamond stylus carefully to be sure it is not damaged. You can remove the reproducer from the horn by turning the knurled connector I think counterclockwise, and looking at the diamond using a jeweler's loupe to see any damage. The diamond should be tapered to a fairly sharp point. If not, it will not track the record grouves correctly, and damage the records. Sometimes, you can discover a damaged stylus by placing the reproduce in the runoff area at the end of a diamond disc, and watch for faint scratches and/or greyish residue that is left by the stylus. New diamonds are available, but fairly expensive at around $100-150 installed.
(5) regarding your questions about your diamond discs, the #'s you see on the labels and/or etched into the disc edge are the coupling numbers for identification. I can send you a spreadsheet containing the complete Edison matrix and coupling numbers, along with titles and artist information if you'll forward your email address in a personal message to me.
Hope this helps.
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Jul 3, 2014 7:48:15 GMT -5
That does look like the Sheraton SI-19 inlay to me. Inlays are not routinely found, at least here in the South. Be sure to check the stylus carefully before playing any "important" discs. A jeweler's loupe will help you to see the condition. And, remember that Edison intended his machines to play Edison diamond disc records ONLY. Playing lateral cut 78s with an Edison diamond disc reproducer will destroy the record.
Nice find at a yard sale! Hope you enjoy it.
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Apr 25, 2014 7:43:28 GMT -5
Hey folks
I recently acquired and early Amberola 30 that has the external speed control through the gear cover. The speed control was disassembled, but parts appear to be all there.
Could someone advise or post a picture of what this early speed control assembly looks like? I want to be sure I'm putting it back together correctly.
Thanks a bunch!
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Apr 4, 2014 8:06:25 GMT -5
I'm reasonably sure that the Amberola 30/50/75 models had no original pin-striping. At least, according to my look at Frow's book.
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Dec 17, 2013 10:58:02 GMT -5
Looking for an original carriage rod for Amberola 30. Thanks.
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Aug 1, 2013 10:11:30 GMT -5
Hello Ben
Your reproducer very likely requires a re-build at a minimum to replace the gaskets that isolate and cushion the diaphragm. After almost 100 years, they are hard and brittle. Beyond that, it sounds like your diamond stylus is compromised. You can look at the diamond using a jeweler's loupe or other magnifier to see if it still has its normal sharp point or if it is worn down or fractured. Some folks test the condition of the stylus be positioning the reproducer in the run-off area of a diamond disc record, and observe whether any scratches or grey residue results.
If you need a replacement stylus, expect to spend $100 or more for it.
Finally, if you want to PM me, I can send you a copy of a diamond disc owner's manual, that describes how to "set up" your reproducer, which essentially is making sure it is properly aligned to track the record grooves.
Hope this helps you.
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Jul 12, 2013 14:24:40 GMT -5
Chris
Sorry to hear about your trouble. You should be able to extract the broken off stud by drilling a hole smaller than the diameter of the stud, then using an ez-out (or screw extractor) of a size appropriate to the drilled hole. The broken off stud should not be extremely tight since not much torque was used when screwing in the crank, and only the reverse spring pressure when winding. I have done this many times and always successful. I'd be surprised if you couldn't get it out. Just be patient. You don't want to break off a drill bit or the ez-out since these would be harder steel than the stud.
Good luck!
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Jul 10, 2013 8:05:50 GMT -5
Hey Cole and welcome,
It's doubtful that your red felt is original. Frow's book mentions "silk covered grilles" on early Amberola models. Some Model 50s were reported to have cloth louvres in the grill. There is no mention of specific colors.
Hope this is helpful.
John
|
|
|
Post by gibsonj on Jun 26, 2013 7:52:46 GMT -5
Larry
That would really be a shame. There's a ton of knowledge and history here.
John
|
|