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Post by coyote on Jun 11, 2013 12:25:17 GMT -5
There were several furniture manufacturers that made barrister cabinets that would accommodate Diamond Discs. Globe-Wernicke comes to mind, as well as Spencer and Barnes, which is the cabinet that I have (first image). A while ago, there was a brochure for the Edison-manufactured DD cabinets on eBay; I saved the images from it (other photos).
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Post by coyote on Jun 7, 2013 1:05:27 GMT -5
The safe way to clean DDs is to use 90% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) I damped a paper towel with the alcohol, I prefer Bounty for this since it seems less coarse, and lightly wipe it in a circular motion with the grooves. I've found that those cotton pads women use for removing makeup are great for this purpose. However, maybe it's my imagination, but I swear some DDs have more surface noise AFTER cleaning them with 90% isopropanol. If they're relatively clean, especially paper label ones, I leave them alone.
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Post by coyote on Jun 7, 2013 1:01:22 GMT -5
All one needs do is take small old hand towel and push it into the horn till you get the volume you want, it will tone it down. Just DO NOT do this while playing a record, since the arm and horn are all one assembly and pivot, of course. Being used to doing this with cylinder machines, I had a "senior moment" once and forgot...
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Post by coyote on Jun 1, 2013 10:59:33 GMT -5
Eh, I never noticed anything particularly troublesome in that regard; perhaps I just ignored it. I check the TMF much more than here. As I enjoy and learn about Victor and other makes as well. Any ill-advised comments there pale in comparison to the brouhaha that led to the creation of the TMF in the first place, but that's a story that does not bear repeating. Glad to see you here, too, Ralph, and good to see you again, Paul! Keep your avatars, as I for one tend to recognize people that way more often than by username, and I'm sure others do as well.
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Post by coyote on Jun 1, 2013 10:44:22 GMT -5
52430-L Attachments:
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Post by coyote on Jun 1, 2013 10:43:52 GMT -5
Here is the R side. Left side in next post. Just did a quick scan, hope they're OK for your purpose. Attachments:
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Post by coyote on May 29, 2013 13:52:14 GMT -5
A photo of the 1-C's front. This is SN 2925. Attachments:
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Post by coyote on Feb 6, 2012 13:39:50 GMT -5
Bill, Just for the sake of reference, the DD LPs that I own have the following matrix numbers: (as best I can make out)
10002 - 12004-F-1-2 and 12005-J-1-2 10002 (another copy) - 12004-F-1-6 and 12005-J-4-4 10004 - 12008-A-1-8 and 12009-B-1-8 10006 - 12029-A-4-2 and 12032-B-2-2 10008 - 12037-J-1-4 and 12038-A-1-4
This is the only info in the runoff area; I assume the format of it was kept from the regular DD issues.
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Post by coyote on Nov 2, 2010 12:05:00 GMT -5
As you surmised, this isn't a highly valuable machine. This model is pretty common, and consoles in general are less collectible than other machines, so it wouldn't be a huge travesty to refinish. I suspect you're right and would have a lot of trial-and-error in matching the rest of the finish if you just did the top. Eric Reiss's "The Compleat Talking Machine" has a good section on refinishing. If you don't already have the book, it's great for outlining the basics of restoration of a variety of machines. As for the "why" of not playing Diamond Discs with a steel needle: a steel needle will cut right through the "condensite" layer on a Diamond Disc, leaving damaged "brown" grooves. If you see any brown grooves on your DDs, this is most likely what has happened in the past. A really bad diamond can do the same thing. Regarding the stylus on a budget, the cheapest way to go is probably just investing in a new needle bar (and gaskets) when you have the funds. If you're careful, you can replace it yourself with some pointers and the right tools. First check to make sure that the "string" linkage that connects the needle bar to the diaphragm is intact and not "pulled out" of the diaphragm, otherwise you'll need a diaphragm with linkage as well. The reproducers on eBay are too hit-and-miss, and odds are high you'd be wasting your money as you stated. As far as mechanics, I'll refer you to the Diamond Disc service manual posted on another phonograph board: forum.talkingmachine.info/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=476This board also has several topics covering refinishing and the like; check it out!
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Post by coyote on Nov 2, 2010 2:14:21 GMT -5
Others can advise better than I can about the cabinet finish, so I'll leave that to someone else! New needles are available at a variety of phono suppliers (APSCO comes to mind: www.antiquephono.com/edisect.htm). Suppliers are pretty uniform in pricing, about $125. The needle bars can be difficult to install. You can also buy a new reproducer head on eBay and hope it has a good diamond, or send it for repair, as it would probably benefit from new gaskets, rear hinge lubrication, etc. as well. People who do this work are listed in other threads, or others can make recommendations (George Vollema www.worldofgramophones.com/repairgeorge.html, et al.) Threads on this board and others also cover various aspects of rebuilding a Diamond Disc reproducer if you'd rather undertake it yourself. If you can't find related topics, a number of members will certainly guide you through it. Many later Diamond Disc models (including your Baby Console) were equipped with the buttons for 10 and 12 inch disc sizes, but NOT equipped with long-play gearing. The long-play records were short-lived in the 10" size, and I don't think the proposed 12 inch Diamond Discs ever materialized. To use the buttons, hold one down as you move the reproducer towards the record. It will hit a stop (thunk!) when it is over the approximate position of the start of a 10 or 12" record. Yep, big deal. That's all these buttons do. As a side note, I'm sure you know not to play Diamond Discs with a steel needle on a non-Edison machine, and playing "regular" records (non-Diamond Discs) on an Edison machine requires a special aftermarket adapter. Just thought I'd mention it! Good luck!
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Post by coyote on Oct 1, 2010 11:50:45 GMT -5
I don't think Jelly Roll Morton ever recorded for Edison, although there are several Diamond Discs featuring Morton-composed selections played by other artists: Black Bottom Stomp recorded by Red and Miff's Stompers (51878), Jelly Roll Blues by The Original Memphis Five (51246). There are also others composed partly by Morton (like Sidewalk Blues), again performed by others.
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Post by coyote on Oct 1, 2010 11:38:56 GMT -5
There are plenty available on eBay, at a variety of prices depending on rarity/how desirable they are and condition. Ones with paper labels generally have better sound quality than the earlier electrotype ("engraved") labels.
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Post by coyote on Sept 29, 2010 10:50:39 GMT -5
Thanks for the info on the 4-minute black wax blanks. I've always wondered how these fared for recording, but never had any to test. In your opinion, what is the best (if any) medium for 4-minute recordings? I've used both your and original brown wax blanks for 4-minute recordings, and despite what I've heard others say in the past, they seem to perform well and hold the smaller groove, as long as you're not planning on playing them to death, or using a heavier reproducer. I've also heard that brown wax will get "harder" with age, is there any evidence (even anecdotal) for this?
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Post by coyote on Mar 19, 2010 23:54:08 GMT -5
Steve,
Thanks for the interesting info. Sometimes we tend to make the Frow book into a bible, but I suspect there are a lot of details on reproducers and recorders that were just too complex and beyond the scope of the book.
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Post by coyote on Feb 20, 2010 11:16:26 GMT -5
I don't think anyone makes these parts. Your best bet would be to find someone with a non-repairable Business phonograph who is parting it out, but I have not seen any Business phonographs in quite a while. Good luck.
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