steve
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Post by steve on Jun 15, 2007 21:03:09 GMT -5
What is the best way to cement the eyelet to a glass diaphragm on the Edison automatic and early B? I finally found new glass diaphragms. $10 each or $70 for 10 post paid. www.cylinder.de/index2.htmlSteve
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steve
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Posts: 130
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Post by steve on Jul 2, 2007 19:47:48 GMT -5
Hi Bill,
Thanks, that should be easy to remember, I hope.
Steve
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steve
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Posts: 130
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Post by steve on Jun 15, 2007 20:56:03 GMT -5
Hi Shane,
Someone made my straight 12 panel Triumph horn into a cygnet, so I know the straight Triumph horns have 12 panels. The straight home horns are smaller and I believe they were the same size as the standard, but I am not sure.
Steve
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steve
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Posts: 130
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Post by steve on Jun 8, 2007 18:34:35 GMT -5
Hi Bill,
When working with mica for an automatic or standard speaker I take a soldering iron and heat the eyelet with a small piece of flake shellac below it and the heat works just as Bill said, I just wondered it glass would work the same way.
I also use a soldering iron and flake shellac to install styli, and a soldering iron to remove styli.
Steve
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steve
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Posts: 130
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Post by steve on May 29, 2007 18:30:39 GMT -5
Hi Bill,
What do you use to attach the eyelet to the glass diaphragm? I found new glass diaphragms.
Steve
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steve
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Posts: 130
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Post by steve on May 14, 2007 18:30:00 GMT -5
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steve
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Posts: 130
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Post by steve on May 14, 2007 18:23:12 GMT -5
The 30 has a metal front grill that is painted to look like wood.
Steve
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steve
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Posts: 130
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Post by steve on May 29, 2007 18:41:06 GMT -5
Shane,
I think you are getting the diamond A and model L mixed up, the diamond A has a weight like the diamond B while the L has a flat round N weight that is the same except for the oxidation and the limit loop is moved back closer to the end. If you cannot find photos I will send you some.
Steve
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steve
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Posts: 130
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Post by steve on May 29, 2007 18:39:12 GMT -5
Luke W,
Do you have a photo of the flattened H or K type used for the early L and M? I have only a copy of an article that has them in it and I would like to get a nice photo of each. How did you learn about these? I learned from Ron D.
Steve
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steve
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Posts: 130
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Post by steve on May 14, 2007 18:20:52 GMT -5
J,
For $150 I would want a nickel plated one with the brass tube in excellent condition.
Steve
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steve
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Post by steve on Apr 25, 2007 18:33:10 GMT -5
The problem with buying a reproducer on eBay is you never know if the diamond is good or not. John Nagy replaces the diamond in you stylus bar for $75, he even does Edisonic bars.
Steve
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steve
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Posts: 130
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Post by steve on Mar 15, 2007 21:13:36 GMT -5
Dear Matt,
The Paul Baker reproducers have serial numbers that start with a P and end with a B. P 426 B is an example of his. Paul used a larger diameter link than Edison so his are louder. Paul's stylus bars were just like the originals, a lot of the ones you see today are not well made and would be hard to replace the stylus. Generally reproduction parts are not as good as the originals. Normally Paul Baker reproducers will sell for more than originals. He also made reproduction boxes. Too bad he is not making them now.
Steve
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steve
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Posts: 130
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Post by steve on Mar 17, 2007 15:58:52 GMT -5
Inside the barrel I use flake graphite and Vaseline 10 parts Vaseline 1 part graphite flakes. My standard that was greased in 1982 is still going strong. I like the graphite because it does not smell bad, some grease smells like something died.
On the outside gears I just use Vaseline. Keep an eye on how many cylinders you can play, the home A could play 6 if you can play 2 is sounds like your spring is getting weak, this happened to my standard D, finally it would not play one cylinder.
Steve
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steve
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Posts: 130
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Post by steve on Dec 28, 2006 20:32:35 GMT -5
Hi Bill,
These are the low quality water slide decals. The only Edison decals that I ever saw that were up to my standards were the ones Dave Jolley made. His Edison decal looks exactly like the original. He is the only one I know of that made the speed marks for the Triumph. His decals are very thin and took skill to apply so he stopped making them as the average person had problems.
A great deal of the reproduction parts made today are of low quality. The Smiths are outstanding, but reproduction parts are a weak link for the most part. Please note I am not criticizing anyone, but I would never pay that much for these decals.
Best regards,
Steve
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steve
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Posts: 130
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Post by steve on Nov 29, 2006 17:43:47 GMT -5
Hi,
I am doing research on model O reproducers and am interested in finding out if anyone has an all brass top O that I can get the serial number of. Years ago I got the serial number of one, around 3500, but I lost my file. Contact me privately if you wish, all personal info remains confidential. I will also be very happy to get any O or N serial number and share information.
The iron and brass O has the name plate made of nickel plated brass held on by four pins and the iron ferule around the sound tube. A magnet will stick to the sound tube of a iron and brass O and the upper iron parts are flash nickel plated. So far 5132 is the lowest iron and brass and 12557 is the highest I have found with 13340 being the lowest pot metal one I know of and 65764 is the highest O serial number I have. I know about when the trowel weight came out and when they went to the dome top. The O and N shared serial numbers as did the R and S and the small tops (B D C H J K) shared the same serial numbers. I do know of N and N-56 with R and S serial numbers.
If anyone wants to give me a serial number let me know what top it has, dome or flat and its composition, the turn over rod end, and the weight, round or trowel.
There are three types of turn over rod ends, the earliest had knurling on the end, the middle had the arrows on the end and then the knurling, the last has the pointer. The middle style is the least common.
Steve
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