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Post by lucius1958 on May 28, 2015 21:16:08 GMT -5
What seems to be wrong with it? The 'user' was merely fronting for a spam post (which has since been removed). BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on May 23, 2015 0:48:15 GMT -5
Hi there! I have been looking for someone to fix my phonograph at home. Thank you for posting this information. I will surely keep in touch. Have a nice day. ROT IN PERDITION, SPAMMER!!!
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Post by lucius1958 on May 23, 2015 0:46:51 GMT -5
Hi there! I think you should try looking in a music shop in your town. Maybe they have some listening tubes down there? SPAMMER!
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Post by lucius1958 on May 21, 2015 22:54:36 GMT -5
Hi there! I have been looking for someone to fix my phonograph at home. Thank you for posting this information. I will surely keep in touch. Have a nice day. Hi! What make and model do you have? BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on May 21, 2015 22:51:16 GMT -5
Hi there! I think you should try looking in a music shop in your town. Maybe they have some listening tubes down there? Um...... I don't think music stores generally stock antique phonograph parts. BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on May 18, 2015 23:48:00 GMT -5
Should be the same.
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on May 2, 2015 21:27:09 GMT -5
As for the horn: does this Home have an angled or horizontal reproducer carriage? And is there any evidence of screw holes on the front or rear of the case?
If it's an angled carriage, it would most likely have come with a straight, black 'morning glory' horn (Edison marketed several sizes of these for the Home, Standard, etc.), or even an after-market horn, if you wanted something more colorful. If there are no screw holes on the front of the case, it might have used a simple crane that was held by the edge of the case under the lid, and a section that went under the bottom of the case (Reproductions of these are available from various sources).
The larger, horizontal carriage for the Model O, N, or Diamond B reproducer, was often used with the 'Cygnet' horns, which used a crane mounted on a back bracket; if it had this, you should see four screw holes on the back of the case.
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Apr 27, 2015 1:16:34 GMT -5
If it has factory 2/4 minute gearing (evidenced by a decal on the upper casting, plus the pull-out section on the pulley), it would be a model D or later.
The 2 minute only model C was available for only a few months in 1908.
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Apr 20, 2015 22:44:49 GMT -5
George P. should be able to tell you when it left the factory. Some photos would be nice, as well.
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Apr 14, 2015 23:04:21 GMT -5
There are a number of suppliers for belting, if you check the links given in the 'Web Resources' thread here, or the equivalent in the Talking Machine Forum (TMF).
For a Standard, you're going to need at least a foot - probably 2, just to have some in reserve. Kangaroo leather is the best for this purpose: thin, supple, and durable.
To get the length: if you have the original belt, measure that, then add a couple of inches for excess. Fit the belt leather over the pulleys, with the belt tensioner on the outside. Draw the belt just comfortably snug - not too tight: the tensioner takes care of that.
Mark where it meets the other end, then add about 3/8 - 1/2 inch for overlap. Cut to that length. Now take a NEW single edge razor blade, and carefully thin down both ends of the overlap: one end on the outside, and the other on the inside : this makes a smoother joint.
Coat both shaved-down ends with a thin coat of contact cement, and let them dry for a few minutes. Then re-thread the new belt around the pulleys, and press both ends together.
Once you're sure the cement is holding, you can take it off the pulley, and squeeze the joint with pliers to smooth it out; then put it back on the pulleys. You should be good to go.
The best tension for the belt should be just enough to turn the mandrel while playing, without slipping. If the belt is too loose, you can cut it apart, remove a tiny bit, and connect it again as above. If it's a little too tight, you can stretch the belt slightly by hand until it works properly.
I hope this has been useful to you.
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Apr 14, 2015 0:20:45 GMT -5
If you changed the video setting to something other than 'private', perhaps we could actually see it...
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Apr 13, 2015 0:36:47 GMT -5
There were certainly 2/4 minute conversion kits for the Standards, as well as the other models. It would not be too rare to find a model A works that had been 'Amberolized' after 1908.
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Apr 10, 2015 1:07:16 GMT -5
The 'easy' way is to set the reproducer down on the inner 'dead wax' area of a disc. If, after a while, you notice scratches in that area, that indicates the stylus is worn and should be replaced.
You can also check the stylus visually, using a high power jewelers' loupe and good lighting. Any wear should show up as a flat spot on the stylus tip: a good stylus will have a smooth, rounded tip.
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Apr 9, 2015 3:01:06 GMT -5
What's on the R sides? and what's the overall condition of the records?
BillS
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Post by lucius1958 on Apr 9, 2015 2:52:56 GMT -5
Judging from the boss with the serial # on it, plus the brass mandrel, you have a 'suitcase' Home - is that correct?
In the early Homes, there was some variation between the 2-screw and 4-screw reproducer clamps: it wasn't until after 1901 that the clamps were replaced with a single set screw.
The C reproducer shown is actually some years later than the phonograph: it would probably have originally been equipped with an 'Automatic' reproducer. The large screw on the right (missing) was a hold-over from the early 'Standard Speaker' recorder/reproducer, meant to get the reproducing stylus in correct alignment with the record.
George P. will give you the date of manufacture...
BillS
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