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Post by maroongem on Feb 6, 2013 16:36:49 GMT -5
I made my own years ago. I'll post some photos. It's fairly simple to make and also works on Columbia sound boxes.
BillF
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Post by maroongem on Feb 6, 2013 16:27:19 GMT -5
You can see the push/pull knob for the gear change on the left thanks to the gear cover being absent. This is not the later combination add-on to make a 2M machine play 4 as well. You can also see the oil port for the bearing on the stanchion next to the mandrel which also indicates a D. Where it has the front mount crane as well, I'm thinking someone updated the carriage arm to accept the Diamond B but never bothered with a cygnet set up or, could just be thrown together to sell. Def. not a Mod. C cabinet with the extra molding.
BillF
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Post by maroongem on Feb 6, 2013 4:58:54 GMT -5
Bernt,
The originals were held by stick shellac, much like a roller or pallet jewel. I don't know what they use in modern replacements.
BillF
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Post by maroongem on Feb 5, 2013 19:50:05 GMT -5
Not necessarily, Bernt. The cylinder just adds even more drag. What model is this Standard? I looked back and didn't see one listed in your posts. Does this machine have an end gate? Is the knife edge free of rust and old grease? Is there good tension on the belt? There are several reasons for the machine to stop and you just have to eliminate them one by one.
BillF
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Post by maroongem on Feb 5, 2013 19:20:37 GMT -5
It has the large carriage and Mod. B diamond Reproducer for 4M play and may be a Standard Mod. D that was a 2/4M machine, but from the one photo it's tough to tell if it is a D or a later machine.
BillF
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Post by maroongem on Feb 5, 2013 16:52:20 GMT -5
Hi Bernt,
The first thing that comes to mind is that the half nut is bearing too hard on the feedscrew. This can be remedied by carefully bending the half nut bar upwards ever so slightly so that when you lower the carriage it doesn't bear down too heavily. You may have to play around a bit until you get the correct adjustment. Another issue could be old hardened oil in the feed screw threads. The feed screw should be completely free of old oil or grease as well as the half nut. Some people lightly oil the feed screw after it is cleaned but I find that if you leave the lid off, dust attaches itself to the oil and over time gets tacky. A shot of silicon would be better.
BillF
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Post by maroongem on Feb 3, 2013 17:04:56 GMT -5
Iain, Looking at the photo that you took after you cleaned the area, I can see at least on number (which I circled) and possibly another to it's left. I doubt that whatever you cleaned it with made those grinding/file markings. If you notice, there is a visible scalloping of the edge of the base where it was ground. BillF
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Post by maroongem on Feb 2, 2013 22:45:09 GMT -5
I used an Eveready 6v lantern battery in mine. The cloth covered lead from my Reproducer was red so that was the one I hooked to the positive terminal. I don't know if it makes a difference long term on the coil. IIRC, the terminals are marked on the Eveready.
BillF
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Post by maroongem on Feb 2, 2013 18:38:31 GMT -5
Huh. It almost looks like it was hit with a grinder or a file.
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Post by maroongem on Feb 2, 2013 11:49:39 GMT -5
I have a couple of quertions about the Edison ICS cylinders: 1. The wax two minute cylinders were some of the first moulded Edisons, launched in September 1901. They were superseded by 100tpi blue Amberol versions, presumably soon after the celluloid records were launched in November 1912. When did Edison stop producing the wax versions? 2. The ICS cylinders were 200tpi by mid 1915. When did the 200tpi's start? When did the 100tpi's stop? Any ideas? Keith Keith, The BAs (and other 4M cylinders) were 200 tpi. New 2M (100 tpi) production ceased in 1912 but existing stock was offered by Edison until early 1914. 4M Amberol production was also stopped for the U.S. at the same time (1912) to make way for the new BAs, but apparently was still producing 4M Amberols for the foreign market until late in 1913. 200 tpi for Edison would have begun when he offered the 4M Amberol in 1908. Bill
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Post by maroongem on Feb 2, 2013 11:18:25 GMT -5
Maroongem: Re the speed control on my Edison Standard, I took a look at the link you sent, and assumed that when I looked under the bed plate of my machine, everything would become clear, but I'm having to admit defeat: I still can't see which button/screw/knob to adjust. Could you advise further please? ;-) Many thanks, Iain Iain, Sorry for not replying sooner, just saw this now. Here is the location of the speed control. This is on a Standard B but they are all in the same location after the A seires. Turning it counter clockwise will speed it up (by moving the governor pads away from the governor) and clockwise for slower.
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Post by maroongem on Feb 2, 2013 10:00:19 GMT -5
By the way we should be careful when moaning about the 'Damberols'. Without dubbing from Diamond Discs it is probable that National would have ceased cylinder production much earlier and we would have less records to play today. Keith You might be thinking of the later BA regarding the dubbing process from disc to cylinder, which began in the late fall of 1914. AFAIK, all 4M Amberols were direct recordings from a wax master and moulds were made from these masters. I do agree that an unworn 4M Amberol has a fine sound, much better than the later dubbed BAs which had a hit or miss quality. BillF
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Post by maroongem on Feb 2, 2013 1:53:22 GMT -5
Iain, As George pointed out, I think your serial # is under the crud at the front. I think I can make some of it out in your photo. Here is a photo of my Q's serial number and yours should be in approximately the same spot. Bill
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Post by maroongem on Jan 30, 2013 15:38:32 GMT -5
Chuck, Norman Bruderhofer of Berlin Phonograph Works was offering glass diaphragms a few years ago. You can check with him and see if he still has them. BillF www.berlinphonographworks.com/email: records@berlinphonographworks.com
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Post by maroongem on Jan 29, 2013 15:53:48 GMT -5
I still have to make/repair the screw in-pin at the top of the weight. What sort of thread is on that and what is the pin diamter / length? Best regards Bernt BTW: How do I set this forum to send me emails when there is a reply? Bernt, Are you referring to the limit pin as depicted in your last photo? If so, the pin is .059 in diameter and .3665 in length. As far as the thread size, I wouldn't worry about it because chances are, you won't find a die to cut it. I would just make it so it fits friction tight. If you are referring to the pin that goes through the weight and hinge block, that is a .0445 screw with a .4435 length. The thread at the end is even smaller than the hinge block post, so I would just make a pin to fit and that the weight can move freely on. BillF
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